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Learn more about the Groundhogs that we work with here! Groundhogs Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Groundhogs Woodchucks, also called groundhogs, are closely related to the marmots that are common in the west. These grayish brown creatures are typically 16 to 20 inches long including a six-inch tail, and weigh between six and 12 pounds. Basking in the mid-day sun, families of woodchucks may evoke thoughts of a harmonious existence between humans and nature in suburbia. But many Maine gardeners soon learn that unless they take precautionary measures, most of their precious plantings may be sacrificed to the woodchuck's voracious appetite. Habitat In New England, woodchucks inhabit both urban and suburban yards, fields, meadows, woodland clearings, and are frequently seen in grassy areas along highways. Woodchucks live in extensive burrows two to six feet deep and up to 40 feet long that contain numerous chambers with specific functions such as nesting waste disposal. You can identify the main entrance by an adjacent large mound of dirt that the animal uses for observation and sitting in the sun; in addition, there may be as many as five other openings to the den. Behavior Woodchucks are active during the day. In summer they commonly feed in the early morning and the late afternoon, spending the rest of the day sleeping or basking in the sun. Woodchucks are among the few true hibernators found in Maine. In late summer they begin to put on weight in preparation for the move to their winter dens, often located in wooded areas. Woodchucks begin their hibernation in October and emerge in February or March. The average life span for a woodchuck in the wild is five to six years. Food Mainly vegetarians, woodchucks feed on a variety of grasses and chickweeds, clover, plantains and many varieties of wild flowers. They eat blackberries, raspberries, cherries, and other fruits and along with the bark of hickory and maple trees. To the dismay of gardeners, woodchucks love fresh vegetables, especially broccoli, peas, beans, carrot tops, lettuce and squash. They also commonly target asters, daisies, lilies, marigolds, pansies, phlox, snapdragons and sunflowers. Woodchucks will also eat grasshoppers, June bugs and other large insects. Breeding Woodchucks do not mate until their second year. Males and females breed in March or April, after which there is no further contact; the female raises the young alone. Woodchucks give birth from early April to mid-May following a 32-day gestation period. One litter contains four to six kits. The young open their eyes at four weeks and are weaned at six weeks when they are ready to leave the burrow with their mother. In the fall the young woodchucks venture off to seek their own territories.

We offer Free Home Inspections! Home / Business Inspections Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info "Please be advised of the following details: Our inspection fee amounts to $125.00 for locations within 50 miles of the Lewiston/Auburn area. Should you opt to engage our services, this fee will be integrated into the final invoice, essentially resulting in a complimentary inspection." Thank you for considering Ethical Wildlife Solutions for your service needs. We are pleased to inform you that our services always commence with a full inspection of your property. This detailed inspection covers all aspects of your home or business, ensuring a comprehensive evaluation of any animal occupation or property damage. Our dedicated team will meticulously assess every area of your property, from the foundation to the roof. Following this thorough inspection, we will provide you with a comprehensive email outlining our findings and recommended services. For accurate detection of critters within your walls or ceiling, we may employ cutting-edge equipment such as Thermal Imaging. To schedule your appointment, please click the following link: Book Your Appointment Today!

View our website to learn more about our Trenching Service! Trenching (External Dig Prevention) Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info It's important to understand that some animals have a natural tendency to burrow. Unfortunately, this can lead to them choosing undesirable locations such as around your deck, foundation, driveway, or walkway. Trenching is a humane and effective method to prevent animals from burrowing around your property. Vinyl-coated mesh can be buried deep into the ground around the problematic area to deter animals from further burrowing. This method can also be employed to protect outdoor gardens from unwanted pests. Some typical animals that may require trenching include moles, groundhogs, and rats. If you're looking for expert assistance with trenching to prevent animal burrowing, feel free to book an appointment today, click here !

View our website to learn more Wildlife Rehabilitation! Wild Animal Rehabilitation Services $50.00 Donation To The Rehab Center Is Required When We Transport Wildlife. Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info Ethical Wildlife Solutions takes pride in employing a humane approach to capture and relocate nuisance animals. Regrettably, some captured animals may have pre-existing injuries or illnesses, making it unfeasible to release them back into the wild. At present, we do not possess the necessary resources to provide round-the-clock care required by the remarkable creatures we aim to assist. To address this concern, we have established partnerships with local rehabilitation experts who undertake the responsibility of tending to these animals. Once rehabilitated, the animals are reintroduced into their natural habitat. This additional service offered by our company underscores our commitment to the welfare of these magnificent creatures within our state. Additionally, we offer the option to promptly retrieve any wildlife animals in need of urgent professional care for a nominal fee . If you happen to find an animal that is sick or injured and wont leave your home or business, call to book an appointment and we will come assist! Click Here to Book your Appointment Today! Click on the PDF link below to view a list of all the Local Maine Wildlife Rehabilitation Centers:

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Learn about all of the Diseases, Parasites and Infections that Maine Wildlife Animals carry. Wildlife Diseases, Parasites, and Infections Source: https://www.maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife/wildlife/living-with-wildlife/diseases/index.html Bird Diseases Avian Influenza Avian Influenza (AI) is a type A influenza virus naturally found in certain waterfowl and shorebird species. One strain, H5N1 avian influenza, raised concerns regarding the potential impact on wild birds, domestic poultry, and human health should it be introduced into the US. Avian Cholera Avian Cholera is a contagious bacterial disease that affects ducks, geese, coots, gulls, and crows. It can be transmitted by bird-to-bird contact, contact with secretions or feces of infected birds, or through food, water, and soil. It is deadly to birds, but not considered contagious to humans. Wellfleet Bay Virus The Wellfleet Bay virus is a disease that affects Eider ducks and has thus far been confined to one location: Wellfleet, Massachusetts. Loosely related to the flu virus, it attacks the liver and gallbladder, and seems to work very fast. Learn more at NWDC . Lymphoproliferative Disease Virus (LPDV) LPDV is a disease that affects turkeys and was not detected in the United States until 2012, though it had been seen in domestic turkeys in Great Britain. The disease is similar to Avian Pox and manifests as tumors to the head and feet of turkey, but it is not transmissible to humans. Deer Diseases, Parasites, and Infections Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) is a fatal disease that affects cervids such as deer and moose. It has not yet been found in Maine, and there are things hunters can do to prevent it from being spread here. Learn more by visiting our CWD page . Fibromas Deer fibromas are wart-like growths on deer that are typically caused by an infection with a species-specific papillomavirus. In most cases, fibromas will not negatively impact the health of infected deer, and fibromas are not known to be a significant source of deer mortality. Learn more on our deer fibroma page . Lice, mange, and/or dermatophilosis It is not uncommon to see deer missing patches of fur, and there are several possible causes for this including lice, mange, and/or dermatophilosis, also known as rain rot. Learn more on our hair loss in deer page . Furbearer and Bat Diseases Mange Mange is a contagious skin disease that is caused by mites. Mange results in hair loss and is most commonly seen in foxes and coyotes in Maine, but has also been reported in bobcats, black bears, porcupines, rabbits, squirrels, and raccoons in other areas of North America. People can be infected with mange, a condition known as scabies. If you see a wild animal with mange, there is no need to call for help. Many affected animals with mange are able to recover from the disease. Mange is a naturally occurring disease that helps manage wildlife populations at healthy levels. Learn more at NWDC . Rabies Rabies is a virus that infects the central nervous system of mammals (most commonly bats, fox, raccoons, and skunk), causing a brain disease that is fatal unless treated before symptoms start. It is spread by direct contact through a scratch or bite that breaks the skin, or through a mucous membrane. Learn more from the Maine CDC. White-nose Syndrome White-nose syndrome is a deadly disease that affects bats that hibernate in the winter. It is called white-nose syndrome because of the white fungus commonly found on the muzzles of infected bats. WNS emerged in Maine in 2011 and affects several native bat species. Learn more on the MDIFW website . Moose Parasites Winter Tick The winter tick is a small, external parasite which, like all of Maine’s 15 tick species, survives on the blood of animals. Unlike other ticks, winter ticks are not known to spread disease. However, they can be deadly to moose. Learn more on our winter tick page .

Need to know more information on your warranty? Visit our Warranty Information page. Warranty Information Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info Please be advised that our company does not provide warranties for our Exclusions in the event of severely rotted wood being present or for any kind of Log Home. Our warranty provides reassurance that our work is guaranteed and will cover any issues that may arise. Furthermore, it is transferable to a new owner in the event that you sell your home, thus adding a significant selling point. Additionally, it can be renewed through inspections at the end of the term, providing ongoing protection and demonstrating the value of your property to prospective buyers. Preventative measures against wildlife such as bats and flying squirrels are essential for maintaining the integrity of your property, especially in New England where such wildlife can cause significant damage that may not be covered by standard homeowners insurance policies. Our initial inspections are to ensure that any wildlife issues are identified and addressed prior to a home inspection, thereby preventing potential delays in the sale process. It is important to recognize that New England's extreme weather conditions and natural ground settling can affect the integrity of our preventative work over time. Renewing your current warranty is a prudent decision and can potentially save you substantial costs in the future. Our experienced technicians will conduct a thorough inspection of your property, make any necessary touch-ups, and ensure that your building remains secure from wildlife for another year. The total cost for this service is $250.00. To maintain continuous coverage, it is essential to adhere to our warranty guidelines and seek our guidance in the event of any exterior modifications to your home. For instance, roofing, siding, windows, foundation work, or any additions may impact the validity of the warranty. Our wildlife control technicians are available to provide consultation and advice to prevent any disruptions and mitigate the risk of wildlife re-entry or re-infestation. Your appointment can be scheduled by clicking the link below. Should you have any questions or require further information, please do not hesitate to contact us. We are here to provide the support and guidance you need. Click Here to Book your Appointment Today!

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Learn more about the Coyotes that we work with here! Coyotes Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Coyotes The coyote (Canis latrans) expanded its range north and east into Maine in the 1930s, slipping into the niche that wolves once occupied as largest canine predator. These intelligent and adaptable animals now occupy almost every conceivable habitat type, from open agricultural country to dense forest to downtown urban areas. Despite ever continued human encroachment and efforts to eliminate coyotes, the species has maintained its numbers. The coyote's tenacity tries the patience of some and the admiration of others. Coyotes are medium in size. They have pointed muzzles and long, brushy tails. Their coats are usually a mixture of tan, black and gray, but can range from black to strawberry blond. The average adult coyote weighs 30 to 35 pounds, with males being heavier than females. Large males only rarely will exceed 45 pounds. Biologists estimate that at least 12,000 coyotes are living in Maine. Food and Feeding Behavior Coyotes are opportunists, both as hunters and as scavengers. They eat small animals, including snowshoe hare, mice, rats, woodchucks, beavers, squirrels, snakes, frogs, fish, birds and carrion (animal carcasses). During summer and fall, they also eat grass, fruits and berries. They may also eat pet food, garbage, garden crops, livestock and poultry. Most hunting activity takes place at night. Undisturbed, hungry coyotes may hunt during daylight hours, and sometimes follow farm machinery, catching voles and other small prey. In winter, when snow depth restricts the movements of deer, these animals may become a larger part of a coyote's diet. Pairs of coyotes or family groups, using the relay method, pursue small deer. In the spring and summer coyotes may target deer, fawns and small mammals. Den Sites The female coyote digs her own den under an uprooted tree, log or thicket. Or, she may use a cave, hollow log, or storm drain, or take over and enlarge another mammal's burrow. The den typically has an entrance one to two feet across, a main chamber five to 15 feet long, and a terminal chamber. Coyotes usually have several dens and move from one to the other, minimizing the risk that a den containing young will be detected. These moves also help to prevent an accumulation of fleas and other parasites, urine, droppings and food refuse. Coyotes may use the same dens year after year or make new dens in the same area. Reproduction and Family Structure A mated pair of coyotes will live, hunt and raise pups together for many years, sometimes for life. Breeding occurs in late January and February. After a gestation (pregnancy) of 63 days, the female gives birth to an average of four pups from late March through May. Population density and the availability of food can affect the litter size. Both parents care for the young. Occasionally, non-breeding siblings will assist. Pups emerge from the den in two to three weeks and begin to eat regurgitated food. Conflicts between humans and coyotes may occur at this time because the need for food increases dramatically. By six months of age, pups have permanent teeth and are nearly fully grown. At this time, female coyotes train their offspring to search for food, so it is not unusual to observe a family group. Juvenile coyotes usually disperse alone or sometimes in groups at six to eight months of age. A few may stay nearby, while others seek new territory up to fifty miles away. The more food available in a given area, the closer the juveniles will stay to their den. Although such crosses are rare, it is possible for coyotes to breed with domestic dogs. Mortality and Longevity Coyote numbers are controlled by social interactions and competition for food. They are territorial and aggressively defend their territories against other coyotes. Therefore, only a limited number of coyotes can live in a given area. The main predators of coyotes are humans. Coyotes may occasionally kill another coyote or its pups. Hunting and trapping reduce the overall population and thus competition among the animals. Because pup survival increases as competition decreases, hunting and trapping can enhance pup survival. Coyotes in captivity may live as long as 18 years. In the wild, few coyotes live more than four years; the majority of pups die during their first year. Aggression Coyotes occasionally kill domestic cats, dogs and other wild predators that might compete with them for food. Coyotes are protective of their young and will attack dogs that get too close to their den and pups. Note : Although people often blame coyotes when a pet goes missing or is found dead, many other animals – including dogs cats, bears, fishers, bobcats and foxes – could be responsible, as well as vehicles, disease, weather or even furious neighbors. To date, there have been no documented coyote attacks on humans in Maine. There are documented cases in other states. Often the animals responsible had become accustomed to the presence of people, were fed, and/or were targeting dogs that accompanied people. A Wildlife Extension Specialist at the University of California studied southern California – the West's most densely populated area – and found that from 1988 to 1997 there were 53 coyote attacks on humans resulting in 21 injuries. Viewing Coyotes Coyotes are extremely wary. Their sense of smell is remarkable, and their senses of sight and hearing are exceptionally well developed. You are most likely to see coyotes during the hours just after sunset and before sunrise. Go to a well-used game trail and wait patiently from an overlook. A coyote will often come down the trail the same time every morning or evening. Or, you can watch where a coyote is likely to feed, such as the area around livestock or a big game carcass. Never approach an occupied coyote den. A mother's protective instincts can make her dangerous if she has young in or nearby the den. Observe den sites and coyotes with binoculars or a spotting scope; you should be far enough away that you do not visibly disturb the animals. Unfamiliar or new human activity close to the den, especially within a quarter of a mile, will often cause coyotes to move, particularly if the pups are older, if the adults see you, or if the den is in an open area with little protective cover. Tracks and Trails Look for coyote tracks in mud, sand, dust or snow. Their trails are often found along shallow gullies, fence lines, waterways, game and livestock trails, on or near roads and on ridge tops. Coyote prints are more oblong-shaped than dog prints. The normal print is about two inches wide and two and a half inches long, with the hind print slightly smaller than the front. The two front toenails nearly always leave imprints. Droppings Coyote droppings are found in conspicuous places and on or near their trails. The droppings are extremely variable in size, shape and composition, depending on the animal's diet at the time. Individual droppings average three to four inches long with a diameter of one inch. Droppings consisting of a lot of hair may be larger. The residue from pure meat and entrails is likely to be black and semi-liquid. When the animal has been eating chokecherries, apples, blackberries, huckleberries, elderberries, or other fruit, the droppings tend to crumble and contain a significant amount of seeds. Coyote droppings are extremely variable in size, shape and composition. Other Signs When a coyote feeds on small mammals such as a rabbit, it eats the head, feet, and hide along with the legs and body, leaving a scattering of fur at the site. You may find bones, feathers and fur immediately outside the entrance to a den. Signs of digging occur where coyotes follow promising scents and excavate prey, including moles, voles, and woodchucks, or where they make failed attempts at excavating a den. When a tree falls across a trail, coyotes have to either go over or under it, depending on their size and the height of the fallen tree. Those that go over tend to rub the bark off the top of the log; those that go under sometimes leave hair on the underside. Also look for coyote hairs on a wire fence where a trail runs next to or under the fence. Calls Coyotes have a variety of vocalizations to communicate with each other. To signal threat and alarm, they use woofs and growls for short distances and barks and bark-howls for long distances. They use whines in greetings. They howl individually and in a group to tell separated group members that they have found food. They often utter a yip-howl when a group reunites. During the summer, juvenile coyotes learn these calls and can be heard trying out their voices. Juvenile coyotes are often heard in summer, trying out their voices. Preventing Conflicts Research suggests that humans create the conditions for conflict by deliberately or inadvertently providing the animals with food (such as carcasses of farm animals) or handouts, prompting young coyotes to quickly lose their fear of people. Coyotes will also become dependent on the easy food source humans have come to represent. Once a coyote loses its fear and stops hunting, it may become dangerous and attack without warning. Dealing with coyotes begins with prevention. Once an animal causes damage, it may become easier to do it again. Use the following management strategies around your property and, if possible, encourage your neighbors to do the same. Don't leave small children unattended in areas where you or others have frequently seen or heard coyotes. If there are coyote sightings, prepare your children for a possible encounter. Explain that coyotes live in the area because it is their natural habitat, there is food available, and they are adaptable animals. Say that if a coyote should approach, they should not run but be as big, mean, and loud as possible. Tell them to shout, "Go away coyote!" (or some similar phrase) rather than merely scream, which conveys no information to a nearby adult. Demonstrate and have the children rehearse this behavior. Modify the landscape around children's play areas. Prune shrubs and trees several feet above ground level so coyotes cannot hide in them. Keep deterrents nearby in times of increased sightings. Keep an old hockey stick, a broom, or a pile of stones near the play area to help prepare children for an encounter and to remind them of effective encounter behavior. Never feed coyotes. If fed, coyotes can lose their fear of humans and develop a territorial attitude that may lead to aggressive behavior. Try to educate your friends and neighbors about the problems associated with feeding wild animals. If you belong to a homeowner's association or neighborhood watch, bring up the subject during one of the meetings. Don't give coyotes access to garbage. Keep garbage can lids on tight by securing them with rope, chain, bungee cords or weights, or purchase quality garbage cans with clamps or other mechanisms that hold lids on. To prevent tipping, secure the side handles to metal or wooden stakes driven into the ground. Keep your cans in tight-fitting bins, a shed or a garage. Prevent access to fruit and compost. Keep fruit trees fenced and pick up fruit that falls to the ground. Securely cover compost piles and maintain them within a fenced area. Cover new compost material with soil or lime to prevent it from smelling. Never include animal matter in your compost, as it attracts wild animals. Feed dogs and cats indoors. If you must feed your pets outside, do so in the morning or at midday, and pick up food, water bowls, leftovers and spilled food well before dark. Do not feed feral cats (domestic cats gone wild). Coyotes prey on these cats as well as any food you leave for them. Keep dogs and cats indoors, especially from dusk to dawn. Because they have been raised by humans, pets are not prepared to fend for themselves against predators. If you leave cats and small to mid-size dogs outside at night in an unprotected area, they can easily become prey. If you do lose a dog or cat to a coyote, notify your neighbors, because once a coyote finds easy prey it may continue to hunt in the area. Prevent the buildup of food under bird feeders. Coyotes will eat bird food and are attracted to the many birds and rodents that come to feeders. Build a coyote-proof fence. Coyotes don't leap fences in a single bound but, like domestic dogs, grip the top with their front paws and kick themselves upward and over with their back legs. The tendency to climb will depend on the individual animal and its motivation. A five-foot woven-wire fence with extenders facing outward at the top of each post should prevent coyotes from climbing into the area to be protected. Coyotes are excellent diggers, however, and an effective fence needs to extend at least eight inches below the surface or have a galvanized-wire apron that extends out from the fence at least 15 inches. Fence extensions are required to keep coyotes from jumping over a five-foot fence. Angle the top of a woven-wire fence out about 15 inches and completely around the fence. An effective fence extends below the surface or has a wire apron in front of it to prevent digging. Electric fences can also keep coyotes out of an enclosed area. This type of fence doesn't need to be as high as a woven-wire fence because a coyote's first instinct will be to pass through the wires instead of jumping over them. If the bottom wire is electrified, coyotes don't usually dig under it. A six-wire electric fence can keep coyotes out of an enclosed area.Two electrified wires, eight and 15 inches above ground, respectively, and offset from an existing wood fence by 12 inches will prevent coyotes from accessing the fence. A single strand may be sufficient, but two electrified wires will provide added insurance. Alternatively, install a commercial device, such as the Coyote Roller™ , to prevent coyotes from being able to get the foothold necessary to hoist themselves over a fence. Enclose poultry (chickens, ducks and turkeys) in a secure outdoor pen and house. If poultry and eggs are available, coyotes may eat them. (Note: Foxes, skunks, raccoons, feral cats, dogs, bobcats, opossums, weasels, hawks and owls also kill poultry) You can: Equip poultry houses with well-fitted doors and secure locking mechanisms. Stake the bottom of the fence flush to the ground, or line the bottom of the fence with bricks, fence posts, or similar items. For ways to prevent coyotes from digging under a fence or structure. Completely enclose outdoor pens with one-inch chicken wire placed over a sturdy wooden framework. Various ways to install a barrier to prevent coyotes from digging under chicken coops and similar places. To add to the life of the barrier, spray on two coats of rustproof paint before installation. Always check for utility lines before digging in an area. Lay large flat stones, concrete patio pavers, or quarter-inch hardware cloth (held in place with stakes) on the surface of the soil next to a wall. The barrier forces coyotes to begin digging farther out and they will most likely give up in the process. Bend hardware cloth into an "L" shape and lay it in a trench so that the wire goes at least one foot below ground and one foot out from the wall. Excavate a three-inch by three-inch trench along the side of a wall and hammer two-foot lengths of half-inch rebar, spaced a few inches apart, into the ground. Cover the tops with concrete or dirt. Keep livestock and small animals that live outdoors confined in secure pens during periods of vulnerability. All animals should be confined from dusk to dawn. Temporary or portable fencing keeps livestock together so that they can be guarded more effectively. During birthing season, keep young and vulnerable animals confined at all times. Do not use remote pastures or holding areas, especially if there has been a recent coyote attack. Remove any sick and injured animals immediately. Ensure that young animals have a healthy diet so that they are strong and less vulnerable to predators. Livestock producers have discovered that scare devices, such as motion detectors, radios, and other noise makers, will deter coyotes – until the animals realize that they are not dangerous. Note : Educated farmers attempt to kill coyotes only when damage has occurred. If your property is home to coyotes that have not harmed livestock or pets, it is wise to keep them alive as they will keep away other coyotes that are potential livestock killers. Coyotes also benefit farmers and other property owners by helping control populations of mice, rats, voles, moles, and woodchucks. Remove or bury dead livestock. Coyotes, with their keen sense of smell, quickly find dead animals. Cover the carcass with a minimum of two feet of soil or place it in an incinerator. If you have a lot of property with livestock, consider using a guard animal. There are specialty breeds of dogs that can defend livestock. Donkeys and llamas have also successfully been used as guard animals. As with any guard animal, pros and cons exist. Purchase a guard animal from a reputable breeder. Some breeders offer various guarantees on their guard animals, including a replacement if an animal fails to perform as expected. Lethal Control If all efforts to discourage a problem coyote fail and it continues to be a threat to humans or animals in their care, the animal may have to be killed. In suburban areas of southern California, trapping and euthanizing coyotes has been shown not only to remove the individual problem animal, but also to modify the behavior of the local coyote population. When humans remove a few coyotes, the local population may regain its fear of humans in densely populated areas. It is neither necessary nor possible to eliminate the entire population of coyotes in a given area. Contact your local wildlife office for additional information.

Learn more about the Skunks that we work with here! Skunks Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Skunks Skunks are renowned for the horrible smell they emit when injured, frightened or mating. The odor can remain on pets and in ventilation systems for weeks or months. But these animals can also cause significant damage to buildings and landscaping. They are opportunistic animals that thrive in a diversity of habitats throughout North America. The following are some more skunk facts for Maine homeowners: Habitat Underneath structures: Skunks are burrowers. In the wild they will dig into the ground at the base of a tree. In urban settings, they can be found underneath decks, sheds, porches, houses and other solid foundations. Once underneath, they will hollow out a bowl-shaped depression lined with grass and leaves. Breeding Early in the year: Skunks mate between January and mid March. Interestingly, female skunks can store the male's sperm separately from her eggs in order to delay pregnancy until weather conditions are favorable. The gestation period is around 63 days long. Litter size Female skunks produce litters between 4 and 6 offspring (but it can range between 1 and 9). Rearing Baby skunks keep their eyes closed for the first 21 days and remain in the den for the first 6 to 8 weeks. After this time, the young will venture out for nighttime foraging with their mother. Sexual maturity: Skunks are sexually mature after 9 to 12 months. Food and Feeding Time of day: Skunks are nocturnal and will venture out to forage most evenings. Diet Skunks are omnivores but prefer to eat plants, veggies, fruits, insects, grubs, small animals and eggs as well as anything left in accessible garbage cans. Morphology and Lifestyle Body length: 10-15 in Tail length: 10-15 in Weight: 1 - 4 kg Vocalization: Usually silent but can produce a bird-like noise Lifespan: Between 5 and 10 years Did You Know? Skunks can spray their scent glands up to 15 feet. The skunk smell can remain on skin and pet hair for days, weeks and even months. Skunks have poor eyesight and as such, their awareness of their surroundings is limited. Skunk burrows can cause structural weakness in decks, porches, sheds and foundations. Skunks will dig up lawns and gardens to find food. Skunks can carry the rabies virus and not "look" infected.

Learn more about the Raccoons that we work with here! Raccoons Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Raccoons The raccoon (Procyon lotor) is a native mammal of Maine, measuring about three feet long, including its 12-inch, bushy, ringed tail. Because its hind legs are longer than the front legs, the raccoon has a hunched appearance when it walks or runs. Each of its front feet has five dexterous toes, allowing raccoons to grasp and manipulate food and other items. Raccoons prefer forested areas near a stream or water source, but have adapted to various environments throughout the state. Raccoon populations can get quite large in urban areas, owing to restrictions on and trapping, lack of predators, and food supplied by humans. Adult raccoons weigh 15 to 40 pounds, their weight being a result of genetics, age, available food and habitat location. Males have weighed in at over 60 pounds. A raccoon in the wild will probably weigh less than the urbanized raccoon that has learned to live on handouts, pet food and garbage-can leftovers. As long as raccoons are kept out of human homes, are not cornered, and are treated as wild animals rather than pets, they are not dangerous. Because raccoons manipulate and moisten food items in water, there is a misconception that raccoons "wash" their food before eating it. However, when water is not available, raccoons use many of the same motions in handling food. Facts about Raccoons Food and Feeding Behavior Raccoons will eat almost anything, but are particularly fond of creatures found in water – clams, crayfish, frogs, fish, and snails. Raccoons also eat insects, slugs, dead animals, carrion, birds, bird eggs, fruit, vegetables, nuts and seeds. When garbage and pet food are accessible, raccoons will often eat these items, too. Although not great hunters, raccoons can catch young birds, squirrels, mice and rats. Except during the breeding season and when females are with young, raccoons are solitary. Individuals will eat together if a large amount of food is available in an area. Den Sites and Resting Sites Raccoons take shelter and raise young in dens. They may use burrows that other mammals have dug and abandoned, holes in trees, hollow logs, or areas under large rock or brush piles. They may also take advantage of wood duck nest-boxes, attics, crawl spaces, chimneys and abandoned vehicles. In urban areas, raccoons normally use den sites as daytime rest sites. In wooded areas, they often rest in trees. Raccoons generally move to a different den or daytime rest site every few days, but do not follow a predictable pattern. Only a female with young or an animal "holed up" during a cold spell will use the same den for any length of time. Several raccoons may den together during winter storms. Reproduction and Home Range Raccoons pair up only during the breeding season. Mating occurs as early as January to as late as June. The peak mating period is February. The female bears two or three kits after a 63-day gestation period. The kits remain in the den until they are about seven weeks old, at which time they can walk, run, climb, and begin to occupy alternate dens. At eight to ten weeks of age, the young regularly accompany their mother outside the den and forage for themselves. By 12 weeks, the kits roam on their own for several nights before returning to their mother. The kits remain with their mother in her home range through winter. In early spring seek out their own territories. The size of a raccoon's home range, as well as its nightly hunting area, varies greatly depending on the habitat and food supply. In urban areas, a raccoon may travel a mile and still be in its home range. Mortality and Longevity Raccoons die from vehicle collisions, disease, starvation and predation. Hunters and trappers also take raccoons. Young raccoons are the main victims of starvation, since they have very little fat reserve to draw from during food shortages in late winter and early spring. Bobcats, coyotes and domestic dogs will prey on raccoons; large owls and eagles will prey on young. The average life span of a raccoon in the wild is two to three years; captive animals have lived to the age of 13. Viewing Raccoons Raccoons are usually active at night, but can occasionally be spotted during the day eating, searching for food, or napping in a tree. Coastal raccoons take advantage of low tides, whether during the day or night, to forage for shellfish and other food. Once nightly temperatures fall below 25 degrees F, raccoons retreat to their dens, but may occasionally be seen during warm spells in late fall and early spring. Trails Raccoons take advantage of trails that other wildlife or humans have made, particularly those next to water or in the shelter of woodlands or overgrown fields. They also use culverts to move safely from one side of a road to the other. With a marsh on one side and woods on the other, the culvert becomes the chief route back and forth. In developed areas, raccoon travel along fences, next to buildings, and near food sources. Tracks, Scratch Marks, and Similar Signs Look for tracks in sand, mud, or soft soil, particularly at either end of a culvert. Also check deck railings, fire escapes, and other surfaces that raccoons use to gain access to structures. Tracks may appear as smudge marks on the side of a house where a raccoon shimmies up and descends a downspout or utility pipe. Sharp, non-retractable claws and long digits make raccoons good climbers. Like squirrels, raccoons can rotate their hind feet 180 degrees and descend trees headfirst. (Cats have claws that do not rotate, they have to back down trees) Scan for scratch marks on trees and other structures that raccoons climb. Look for wear marks, body oil, and hairs on wood and other rough surfaces, particularly around the edges of den entrances. The den's entrance hole is usually at least four inches high and six inches wide. Both front and back feet have five toes. The rear foot, which shows the "heel," looks like a small human footprint; the hind tracks are three to four inches long. The front prints have shorter heel marks and are two to three inches long. Droppings Note: Raccoon droppings may carry a parasite that can be fatal to humans. Do not handle or smell raccoon droppings (the parasite can be inhaled) and wash your hands if you touch droppings. Raccoon droppings, which are crumbly and flat-ended, can contain a variety of food items. They are three to five inches long, but are usually broken into segments. They are about half an inch to one inch in diameter, about the size of the end of your little finger. Raccoons defecate before climbing trees and entering structures. They create toilet areas – called "latrines" – inside and outside structures and away from the nesting area. (House cats have similar habits). You may also find scat at the base of trees, on logs and on roofs. Calls Raccoons make several types of noises, including a purr, a chittering sound, and various growls, snarls, and snorts. Raccoons Too Close for Comfort If a raccoon comes too close to you, make yourself appear larger. If you are sitting, stand up, shout and wave your arms. If necessary, throw stones or send the raccoon off with a dousing of water from a hose or bucket. If a raccoon continues to act aggressively or strangely (circling, staggering as if drunk or disoriented) or shows unnatural tameness, it may be sick or injured. Call a game warden, your regional wildlife office, or the state police. If aggressive raccoons are routinely seen in your area, prepare children for a possible encounter. Explain why raccoons live in the area (habitat, food sources, species adaptability) and what the children should do if one approaches. Teach them to shout a set phrase such as "Go away raccoon!" instead of simply screaming, thereby informing nearby adults of the animal's presence. Demonstrate and rehearse encounter behavior with the children. If a raccoon finds its way into your house, stay calm, close surrounding interior doors, leave the room, and let the animal find its way back out through the open door, window or pet door. If necessary, gently use a broom to corral the raccoon outside. Do not corner a raccoon, thereby forcing it to defend itself. Preventing Conflicts A raccoon's search for food may lead it to a vegetable garden, fish pond, garbage can or chicken coop. It may find a den in an attic, chimney, or crawl space. The most effective way to prevent conflicts is to modify the habitat around your home to make it unattractive to raccoons. Don't feed raccoons. Feeding raccoons may create an undesirable situation for your family, neighbors, pets and the raccoons themselves. Human-fed raccoons often lose their fear of people and may become aggressive when they do not receive handouts as expected. Feeding also encourages raccoons to concentrate in a small area; overcrowding can spread diseases and parasites. Finally, these hungry visitors might approach a neighbor who does not share your appreciation of the animals. The neighbor might choose to remove these raccoons, or have them removed. Prevent raccoons from gaining access to your garbage. Keep your garbage can lid on tight by securing it with rope, chain, bungee cords or weights. Better yet, buy garbage cans with clamps or other mechanisms that hold lids on. To prevent tipping, secure side handles to metal or wooden stakes driven into the ground. Or, keep your cans in tight-fitting bins, a shed or a garage. Put garbage cans out for pickup in the morning, after raccoons have returned to their resting areas. Feed dogs and cats indoors and keep them in at night. If you must feed your pets outside, do so in late morning or around noon, and pick up food, water bowls, leftovers and spilled food daily well before dark. Keep pets indoors at night. If cornered, raccoons may attack dogs and cats. Bite wounds from raccoons can cause fractures and transmit disease. Prevent raccoons from entering pet doors. Lock the pet door at night. If it is necessary to have it remain open, put an electronically activated opener on your pet's collar. Note: Floodlights or motion detector lights placed above the pet door to scare raccoons are not long-term solutions. Keep indoor pet food and any other food away from a pet door. Put food in secure compost containers and clean up barbecue areas. Do not put food of any kind in an open compost pile; instead, use a securely covered compost structure or a commercially available raccoon-proof composter. A covered worm box also works. Your goal is to prevent attracting raccoons and to keep yourself from being exposed to their disease-carrying droppings. **Clean barbecue grills and grease traps thoroughly following each use. Prevent damage to lawns. Raccoons (and skunks) are attracted to the grubs and worms that live beneath sod. For more information about preventing damage visit our Skunks page. Eliminate access to denning sites. Raccoons commonly use chimneys, attics and spaces under houses, porches and sheds as den sites. Close any potential entries with one-quarter-inch mesh hardware cloth, boards or metal flashing. Make all connections flush and secure to keep mice, rats and other mammals out. Make sure you don't trap an animal inside when you seal off a potential entry. For information on securing chimneys, see below. Prevent raccoons from accessing rooftops by trimming nearby tree limbs and by attaching sheets of metal flashing around corners of buildings. Farm supply centers and bird-control supply companies on the Internet often carry commercial products that prevent climbing. (Fig. 4) Remove vegetation on buildings, such as English ivy, that allows raccoons to climb walls. Hide or close the opening through which they crawl into the building. Eliminate access to rooftops by installing sheets of aluminum flashing that are at least three feet square around the corners of buildings. Commercially available metal or plastic spikes can help keep raccoons off of buildings. Raccoons in Dumpsters and Down Chimneys Raccoons are enticed by the food smells in dumpsters. When the lids are open they climb in and can't climb the slippery sides to get out. To help them escape, put a strong branch or board in the dumpster. If your disposal company leaves dumpster lids open, install a sign telling employees that it's vital to keep the lid closed so animals do not get trapped inside. Consider installing a totally enclosed trash-compacting dumpster. (You deposit your trash in the front; the trash is regularly compacted) In spring and summer, a female raccoon may be enticed into the dark, quiet and secure environment of your chimney to nest. If you hear a large animal on the roof, or growls and whines coming from the chimney at night, there is probably a raccoon family inside. Using a powerful flashlight during the day, check whether animals have taken up residence. If spider webs are strung across the inside, you can be reasonably sure that no animal is using the chimney. After eight to ten weeks the female and young will leave and not return. The easiest solution is to wait for the raccoons to move out on their own. If you need to evict the animals, do not smoke them out and do not pour anything, including naphtha flakes or mothballs, down the chimney. Adult raccoons can easily climb out of a chimney, but the concentrated vapors can make the female extremely agitated while it attempts to flee. Baby raccoons cannot climb, so these measures will not evict them; in addition, the strong vapors can damage the mucous membranes of the infants. Instead, harass the adult female using the following methods until being it is no longer worth her effort to stay. One by one, she will pick up each young animal in her mouth, latching on to the back of its neck, and move it to an alternate den. Note: Any time you try to evict any mother animal, there is a chance that she may leave some or all of the young behind. To encourage the female raccoon to leave: Keep the chimney damper closed and put a loud radio tuned to a talk station in the fireplace. With a short broomstick, pole or narrow board, bang on the underside of the damper as frequently as possible. Use an olfactory deterrent. Wearing gloves, sprinkle dog, coyote or male raccoon urine (available from farm supply centers, hunting stores and the Internet) on a rag and wedge it in above the damper. If these natural repellents are unavailable, place a bowl containing a cup of ammonia on a footstool just under the damper; most dampers are not airtight, but if yours is, open the damper one-eighth inch. Keep the deterrents in place day and night during a period of mild weather and give the raccoons two to three nights to move out. The female may cause a racket the night of departure as she makes frequent trips up and down the chimney, moving her young. To make sure the eviction process was successful, shine a powerful flashlight down the chimney during the day. Tap the chimney with a hard object and listen for any sounds of movement. If a young raccoon is left behind, it may be that the mother has abandoned it. In these rare cases it is best to hire a wildlife damage control company to remove the animal. In urban areas, harassment techniques may not work because raccoons have become familiar with humans. If this is the case, call a wildlife damage control company and have them assess the situation. Once the raccoons are gone, promptly call a professional chimney sweep to remove any debris and to install a commercially designed and engineered chimney cap. (Homemade caps are often unsafe and may be a fire hazard) The new cap will allow you to have fires in your fireplace or wood stove, but will keep raccoons and other wildlife from entering. A commercial chimney cap will prevent raccoons and other small animals from entering the chimney. Enclose poultry in a secure outdoor pen and house. Raccoons will eat chickens, ducks and turkeys and their eggs. Signs of raccoon predation include the birds' heads bitten off and left some distance away, only the bird's crop being eaten, stuck birds pulled half-way through a fence, and nests in severe disarray. Note: Coyotes, foxes, skunks, raccoons, feral cats, dogs, bobcats, opossums, weasels, hawks and owls will also prey on poultry. If a dead bird is found with no apparent injuries, skinning it may determine what killed it. If the carcass is patterned by red spots where pointed teeth have bruised the flesh but not broken the skin, the bird was probably "played with" by one or more dogs until it died. To prevent raccoons and other animals from accessing birds in their night roosts, equip the poultry house with a well-fitting door and a secure locking mechanism. A raccoon's dexterous paws make it possible for it to open various types of fasteners and latches. To prevent raccoons and other animals from accessing poultry during the day, completely enclose outdoor pens with one-inch chicken wire placed over a sturdy wooden framework. Overlap and securely wire all seams on top to prevent raccoons from forcing their way in by using their weight and claws. To prevent raccoons from reaching in at ground level, surround the bottom 18 inches of the pen with smaller-mesh wire. Fence orchards and vegetable gardens. Raccoons can easily climb wood or wire fences, or bypass them by using overhanging limbs of trees or shrubs. Wire fences will need to have a mesh size that is no wider than three inches to keep young raccoons out. Install electrified wires 12 and 18 inches above ground on existing fence posts, poultry pen supports, and other structures, using the proper insulators. A single strand of wire may be sufficient, but two wires will provide added insurance that the animal will not climb up the post. Run one or two electrified wires toward the top of the fence to prevent other species from jumping the lower hot wires. Protect fruit trees, bird feeders, and nest boxes. To prevent raccoons from climbing trees, poles, and other vertical structures, install a metal or heavy plastic barrier. Twenty-four-inch long aluminum or galvanized vent-pipe, available at most hardware stores, can serve as a barrier around a narrow support. Note: Raccoons will attempt to use surrounding trees or structures as an avenue to access the area above the barrier. Alternatively, a funnel-shaped piece of aluminum flashing can be fitted around the tree or other vertical structure. The outside edge of the flared metal should be a minimum of 18 inches away from the support. Cut the material with tin snips and file down any sharp edges. Regularly pick up fallen fruit to prevent attracting raccoons. To prevent raccoons from climbing, secure guard around trees, pipes, posts and other structures. The guard can be made from a piece of aluminum flashing or sheet metal held together with wire, nails or screws, and then painted to blend in. Discourage raccoons from disturbing pond plants and other aquatic life. Raccoons are attracted to ponds because ponds are a source of food. Although it is tempting to simply install a motion-activated light or sprinkler – or shout at the animal when you see it – these tactics are at best temporarily effective. A raccoon, especially an urban raccoon, may run away the first night and walk away the second night. If there is no additional deterrent, however, by the third or fourth night the animal will be back even as the light shines brightly or the sprinkler sends out strong sprays of water. To deter the animal, you must protect potential food or secure the pond itself: Construct hiding places for fish by placing cinder blocks, ceramic drain tile, wire baskets, or upside-down plastic crates held in place with heavy rocks on the bottom of the pond. To prevent raccoons from disturbing aquatic plants in containers, use containers that are too heavy or wide for raccoons to overturn. Securing chicken wire over the top of the containers to prevent raccoons from disturbing the soil inside. Small ponds can be completely covered with a barrier that can be left on permanently or removed daily. Since raccoons are nocturnal, be sure the pond is covered at night. Examples of barriers include one-inch mesh chicken wire laid over the surface and held in place with stakes – raccoons will walk on the barrier and try and go under it. (While black bird-netting is less conspicuous, raccoons and other animals can easily get entangled in it) A wooden or PVC pipe frame covered with wire mesh can also be built to cover the pond. Maneuvering over pond plants with any of the above can be difficult. Or, you can construct a frame from heavy plastic lattice available from home improvement centers. Carefully cut the lattice so it fits in the pond; cut out pieces to accommodate any pond plants. Cover the lattice with bird netting. (with the solid backing, animals are less likely to become entangled in the netting) The netting can be glued to the lattice using Shoe Goo® or other waterproof glue. For larger ponds, stake two-foot wide strips of chicken wire flat around the inside of the pond edge where raccoons are entering. Cut the wire as needed to match the curvature of the pond. Raccoons will have difficulty reaching over the wire, and will hesitate to stand on it because of its instability. To camouflage and extend the life of the wire, spray it with dark-colored automobile undercoat paint or other rustproof paint. Ponds with steep, two-foot high side walls discourage raccoons from entering the water, but may be a safety hazard for small children and the elderly. These hazardous areas can be located away from paths and/or be heavily buffered with dense growths of tall marginal plants and shrubs. Two electrified wires, six and 12 inches above ground and just back from the water's edge will deter raccoons. A single strand of wire may be sufficient, but two wires will provide added insurance against the animal making the climb. The wires can be hooked up to a switch for discretionary use; when you want to work near the wire, turn the system off. Where the barrier presents a safety problem, attach signs, short pieces of white cloth, or other material on the wire for visibility. Install two electrified wires, six and 12 inches above ground around field crops and other areas needing protection. The fence can be hooked up to a switch for discretionary use; when you want to work near it, turn the system off. Where the fence presents a safety problem, install signs, short pieces of white cloth, or other material on the wire for visibility. Lethal Control Lethal control is a last resort and cannot be justified without first applying the above-described non-lethal control techniques. Lethal control is rarely a long-term solution as other raccoons are likely to move in if food if attractive food items such as garbage and pet foods are not eliminated or secured at the site. If all efforts to dissuade a problem raccoon fail, the animal may have to be trapped. While shooting can be effective in eliminating a single raccoon, it is generally limited to rural situations. Shooting is considered too hazardous in more populated areas, even when legal. Public Health Concerns Canine distemper contributes significantly to raccoon mortality. It is also fatal to domestic dogs, foxes, coyotes, mink, otters, weasels and skunks. It is caused by a virus and is spread most often when animals come in contact with the bodily secretions of animals infected with the disease. Gloves, cages, and other objects that have come in contact with infected animals can also contain the virus. The best prevention against canine distemper is to have your dogs vaccinated and kept away from raccoons. Raccoons in Maine often have roundworms (like domestic dogs and cats do, but from a different worm). Raccoon roundworm does not usually cause a serious problem for raccoons, but roundworm eggs shed in droppings can cause mild to serious illness in other animals and humans. Although rarely documented anywhere in the United States, raccoon roundworm can infect a person who accidentally ingests or inhales the parasite's eggs. Prevention consists of never touching or smelling raccoon droppings, using rubber gloves and a mask when cleaning areas (including traps) that have been occupied by raccoons, and keeping young children and pets away from areas where raccoons concentrate. If washing raccoon droppings from a roof, for example, make sure that the water doesn't splash toys, a patio, or other similar items. Routinely encourage children to wash their hands after playing outdoors and assist them in doing so. Unfortunately, raccoon roundworm eggs can remain alive in soil and other places for several months. Raccoons can carry rabies If someone receives a raccoon bite or scratch, immediately scrub the wound with soap and water, then flush it liberally with tap water. Contact your physician and the local health department immediately. If your pet is bitten, follow the same cleansing procedure and contact your veterinarian. If at all possible, try to recover the animal or note where it goes, as it should be submitted to the Department of Health for rabies testing. In addition, as previously noted, raccoon droppings may carry a parasite that can be fatal to humans. Do not handle or smell raccoon droppings (the parasite can be inhaled) and wash your hands if you touch droppings. Legal Status The raccoon is classified as both a furbearer and a game animal, and a hunting or trapping license is required to hunt or trap raccoons during an open season. Because legal status, trapping restrictions, and other information about raccoons change, contact your local Inland Fisheries and Wildlife Regional Office for updates. If a raccoon is causing damage or is a nuisance, consult Maine's laws on this subject: http://www.mainelegislature.org/legis/statutes/12/title12ch921sec0.html

View our website to learn more about Humane Animal Trapping! Humane Animal Trapping Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info Important Notice: Ethical Wildlife Solutions places significant emphasis on the ethical treatment of animals. However, we do not engage in live trapping of mice or rats. Rats, unlike raccoons, are challenging to capture due to their exceptional cleverness. While it is theoretically possible, it necessitates a considerable investment of time, patience, and optimism. Instead, we provide an Exclusion service , which involves sealing and preventing the re-entry of any animals. Our trapping service adheres to all Maine State guidelines and laws for the humane trapping and relocation of larger nuisance animals. We conduct 5 days of continuous trapping using a variety of traps to ensure the safety and welfare of the animals. Special baits and lures are used to target specific species, and captured animals are immediately evaluated for their health. Healthy animals are transported to safe locations in compliance with Maine State Animal Damage Control laws, while sick animals are brought to Wildlife Rehabilitation Experts we have partnered with. At the end of the trapping period, all traps are removed from the property, and any specified animal deterrents are applied or installed. ** Please note that trapping is not a guaranteed service. ** Typical animals that may require trapping include Groundhogs, Skunks, Fox, Red/Gray Squirrels, Raccoons, and Opossums and many more. To schedule an appointment, please click here .

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Frequently Asked Question by our Customers! Frequently Asked Questions Question : I have a pest control problem, how soon can you get here? Answer : We prioritize timely service to keep our customers satisfied. Generally, we can reach your home or business within a day or two of your call. Priority is given to emergencies, although rescheduling of appointments may be necessary. During peak periods, it may take up to a week to initiate services. Question : Do you also work as an exterminator for bugs and insects? Answer : No, we do not provide extermination services for bugs and insects. Question : Will my home owner’s insurance pay for your services? Answer : Most home owners insurance policies do not typically cover animal removal, but they may cover cleanup or repair costs. It is advisable to consult your insurance agent. We are willing to collaborate with you and your insurance companies to ensure the completion of the job. Question : Are you going to use a lot of dangerous poisons or chemicals? Answer : We opt not to use poisons or chemicals to resolve wildlife conflicts. However, we utilize non-toxic cleaning agents to aid in cleaning and deodorizing wildlife waste or skunk spray. The health and safety of our customers, as well as their families and pets, are always our top priority. Question : What happens to the animals you catch? Answer : Licensed NWCO are bound by specific rules and laws, which we strictly adhere to at Ethical Wildlife Solutions. Live-caught animals are relocated, while sick or injured animals are taken to rehabilitation centers. Question : Do you work in bad weather or in the winter time? Answer : Yes, we operate throughout the year, regardless of weather conditions. However, for safety reasons, there may be specific jobs that we prefer to undertake on more favorable days. Question : Do you charge by the animal, by the hour or by the job? Answer : With each wildlife scenario being unique, we adopt a flexible pricing approach to better serve our customers. For example, animal damage repair is priced based on materials and time, while bat work is priced per job. Trapping costs are determined by the type of animal and the duration of trapping. Question : Will my property be further damaged by catching these animals? Answer : Our goal is to prevent additional damage to your property. In certain cases, minor damage to the home may be necessary to remove the animal. Nevertheless, we have skilled tradespeople who can efficiently repair any damages if required. * Please note that we are not liable for any damage caused by the animal or its removal. * Question : Can I watch you work? Answer : Certainly, you are welcome to observe our work. However, in most cases, the presence of the owner is not necessary. We request that the owner be available on the day of inspection or service to sign paperwork and provide property access. Following that, we can proceed with the work even without the owner present.

Dog Fencing and Dig Protection. Stop your pet from digging under your fence and ruining your lawn! Dog Dig Defence (Internal Dig Prevention) Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info As a new dog parent, one of the most challenging situations to deal with is having an escape artist dog. It's disheartening to witness many dogs being re-homed or ending up in shelters simply because their families struggle to prevent them from digging under or climbing over fences. It's important to note that different breeds have varying reasons for digging. For example, terriers are hard-wired to dig and search for prey. This is why we are offering an Internal Dig Prevention for Dogs! If you need further assistance or advice, please click here to reach out to us. The most effective way to stop a dog from digging under your fence is to physically prevent them from doing so. Understanding why your dog is digging may take some time. Start by ensuring your dog's needs for exercise and mental stimulation are met. Leaving your dog outside alone all day can lead to boredom, which may result in digging. Sometimes, getting your dog a friend can help, but it's crucial to ensure they engage and play together until they are both tired. A well-exercised dog is less likely to dig. If getting another dog is not a viable solution and you're unable to provide your dog with the necessary mental stimulation and physical exercise, consider using puzzle feeders. These can provide mental stimulation to prevent boredom, a common reason for dogs digging under fences. Some dog owners, especially first-timers, may consider breeding their dogs. However, it's important to note that a dog in heat can be challenging to train unless you can dedicate 2-4 hours a day to training. Fully intact male dogs may also exhibit aggressive behavior. Therefore, we highly recommend spaying or neutering your dog if you want to prevent them from digging under your fence.

View our website to learn more about our Consultation Services! On-Site Contractor Consultations Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info if you're a skilled handyman who's having trouble identifying the points of entry for animals in your home, our professional service is just what you need. For a fee Ethical Wildlife Solutions offers a comprehensive inspection of the Home or Business in question. Following the inspection, we will collaborate and discuss the necessary actions and materials needed to prevent animals from entering. Every entry point will be carefully assessed and documented, providing homeowners with a clear focus for their efforts. We will securely attach 'one way doors' to the entry points to effectively exclude animals from the property. To book your appointment today, click here !

Ethical Wildlife Solutions of Maine, LLC is a Licensed/Insured Animal Damage Control Company Servicing all of Maine. Wildlife Trapping and Removal Services. Raccoon, Squirrel, Fox, Coyote, Skunk, Bat, etc. Hello . [Book An Appointment Here.] Squirrel Removal, Raccoon Removal, Animal Damage Control, Wildlife Removal, Pest Control, Animal Control Wildlife Trapping and Removal Services ONLY Please be advised that the technicians of Ethical Wildlife Solutions are exclusively trained and certified to address issues related to wild nuisance animals causing damage to property at residential or commercial premises. It is important to note that we do not handle matters involving domestic animals, such as felines, canines, or caged household pets. For any concerns regarding domestic animals, we recommend reaching out to your local police department or visit the link below for a list of Licenced Animal Control Agents. CLICK HERE Why do I have wildlife issues? As a homeowner in the State of Maine, it is important to address pest issues, pest removal, and repair damage caused by wild animals. The need for Animal Damage Control agents has become necessary to battle infestation. With the human population on the rise, we are encroaching into wild animal territory, creating a need for vigilance. To ensure the safety of your family and the security of your home, it is recommended to schedule an inspection today! Our Mission... At Ethical Wildlife Solutions, we are committed to delivering the most humane approach to Wildlife Trapping and Removal, Repairing Damage, and Preventing Future Wildlife Damage to homes and businesses in Maine. Our dedication to the ethical treatment of animals is paramount, and we take pride in helping our customers feel comfortable in their homes and businesses once again. Ethical Wildlife Solutions works closely with homeowners to completely eradicate any Nuisance Animal causing damage. Flexible financing through Wisetack! Short application, instant decision Checking your options does not affect your credit score Terms from 3 to 60 months APR from 0% to 29.9% No prepayment penalties, origination fees, or compouding interest Example: a $2,000 purchase could cost $90.40 a month for 24 months, based on a 7.9% APR. All loans are subject to credit approval. Your terms may vary. Wisetack loans are issued by Hatch Bank. See wisetack.com/faq Home Buyer's Checklist

View our website to learn more about Live Animal Removals! Live Animal Removals Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info If you ever find yourself face-to-face with a wild animal in your front yard, porch, or living area, our live Animal removal service is your top priority! You can call us anytime, day or night, if you have a wild animal loose in or around your home or business. We'll be there to safely and ethically catch the animal and relocate it. Click Here to Book your Appointment Today!

Learn more about the Animals that we work with here! Animals Covered Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Maine is home to a diverse range of wildlife species that have the potential to cause damage to your residential or commercial property. We are proud to offer our services for the humane removal of any wildlife that may be causing a nuisance in your environment. We invite you to view our slideshow showcasing some of the animals we have experience in working with.