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Learn more about the Groundhogs that we work with here! Groundhogs Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Groundhogs Woodchucks, also called groundhogs, are closely related to the marmots that are common in the west. These grayish brown creatures are typically 16 to 20 inches long including a six-inch tail, and weigh between six and 12 pounds. Basking in the mid-day sun, families of woodchucks may evoke thoughts of a harmonious existence between humans and nature in suburbia. But many Maine gardeners soon learn that unless they take precautionary measures, most of their precious plantings may be sacrificed to the woodchuck's voracious appetite. Habitat In New England, woodchucks inhabit both urban and suburban yards, fields, meadows, woodland clearings, and are frequently seen in grassy areas along highways. Woodchucks live in extensive burrows two to six feet deep and up to 40 feet long that contain numerous chambers with specific functions such as nesting waste disposal. You can identify the main entrance by an adjacent large mound of dirt that the animal uses for observation and sitting in the sun; in addition, there may be as many as five other openings to the den. Behavior Woodchucks are active during the day. In summer they commonly feed in the early morning and the late afternoon, spending the rest of the day sleeping or basking in the sun. Woodchucks are among the few true hibernators found in Maine. In late summer they begin to put on weight in preparation for the move to their winter dens, often located in wooded areas. Woodchucks begin their hibernation in October and emerge in February or March. The average life span for a woodchuck in the wild is five to six years. Food Mainly vegetarians, woodchucks feed on a variety of grasses and chickweeds, clover, plantains and many varieties of wild flowers. They eat blackberries, raspberries, cherries, and other fruits and along with the bark of hickory and maple trees. To the dismay of gardeners, woodchucks love fresh vegetables, especially broccoli, peas, beans, carrot tops, lettuce and squash. They also commonly target asters, daisies, lilies, marigolds, pansies, phlox, snapdragons and sunflowers. Woodchucks will also eat grasshoppers, June bugs and other large insects. Breeding Woodchucks do not mate until their second year. Males and females breed in March or April, after which there is no further contact; the female raises the young alone. Woodchucks give birth from early April to mid-May following a 32-day gestation period. One litter contains four to six kits. The young open their eyes at four weeks and are weaned at six weeks when they are ready to leave the burrow with their mother. In the fall the young woodchucks venture off to seek their own territories.

We offer Free Home Inspections! Home / Business Inspections Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info "Please be advised of the following details: Our inspection fee amounts to $125.00 for locations within 50 miles of the Lewiston/Auburn area. Should you opt to engage our services, this fee will be integrated into the final invoice, essentially resulting in a complimentary inspection." Thank you for considering Ethical Wildlife Solutions for your service needs. We are pleased to inform you that our services always commence with a full inspection of your property. This detailed inspection covers all aspects of your home or business, ensuring a comprehensive evaluation of any animal occupation or property damage. Our dedicated team will meticulously assess every area of your property, from the foundation to the roof. Following this thorough inspection, we will provide you with a comprehensive email outlining our findings and recommended services. For accurate detection of critters within your walls or ceiling, we may employ cutting-edge equipment such as Thermal Imaging. To schedule your appointment, please click the following link: Book Your Appointment Today!

View our website to learn more about our Trenching Service! Trenching (External Dig Prevention) Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info It's important to understand that some animals have a natural tendency to burrow. Unfortunately, this can lead to them choosing undesirable locations such as around your deck, foundation, driveway, or walkway. Trenching is a humane and effective method to prevent animals from burrowing around your property. Vinyl-coated mesh can be buried deep into the ground around the problematic area to deter animals from further burrowing. This method can also be employed to protect outdoor gardens from unwanted pests. Some typical animals that may require trenching include moles, groundhogs, and rats. If you're looking for expert assistance with trenching to prevent animal burrowing, feel free to book an appointment today, click here !

Learn more about the Skunks that we work with here! Skunks Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Skunks Skunks are renowned for the horrible smell they emit when injured, frightened or mating. The odor can remain on pets and in ventilation systems for weeks or months. But these animals can also cause significant damage to buildings and landscaping. They are opportunistic animals that thrive in a diversity of habitats throughout North America. The following are some more skunk facts for Maine homeowners: Habitat Underneath structures: Skunks are burrowers. In the wild they will dig into the ground at the base of a tree. In urban settings, they can be found underneath decks, sheds, porches, houses and other solid foundations. Once underneath, they will hollow out a bowl-shaped depression lined with grass and leaves. Breeding Early in the year: Skunks mate between January and mid March. Interestingly, female skunks can store the male's sperm separately from her eggs in order to delay pregnancy until weather conditions are favorable. The gestation period is around 63 days long. Litter size Female skunks produce litters between 4 and 6 offspring (but it can range between 1 and 9). Rearing Baby skunks keep their eyes closed for the first 21 days and remain in the den for the first 6 to 8 weeks. After this time, the young will venture out for nighttime foraging with their mother. Sexual maturity: Skunks are sexually mature after 9 to 12 months. Food and Feeding Time of day: Skunks are nocturnal and will venture out to forage most evenings. Diet Skunks are omnivores but prefer to eat plants, veggies, fruits, insects, grubs, small animals and eggs as well as anything left in accessible garbage cans. Morphology and Lifestyle Body length: 10-15 in Tail length: 10-15 in Weight: 1 - 4 kg Vocalization: Usually silent but can produce a bird-like noise Lifespan: Between 5 and 10 years Did You Know? Skunks can spray their scent glands up to 15 feet. The skunk smell can remain on skin and pet hair for days, weeks and even months. Skunks have poor eyesight and as such, their awareness of their surroundings is limited. Skunk burrows can cause structural weakness in decks, porches, sheds and foundations. Skunks will dig up lawns and gardens to find food. Skunks can carry the rabies virus and not "look" infected.

Learn more about the Raccoons that we work with here! Raccoons Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Raccoons The raccoon (Procyon lotor) is a native mammal of Maine, measuring about three feet long, including its 12-inch, bushy, ringed tail. Because its hind legs are longer than the front legs, the raccoon has a hunched appearance when it walks or runs. Each of its front feet has five dexterous toes, allowing raccoons to grasp and manipulate food and other items. Raccoons prefer forested areas near a stream or water source, but have adapted to various environments throughout the state. Raccoon populations can get quite large in urban areas, owing to restrictions on and trapping, lack of predators, and food supplied by humans. Adult raccoons weigh 15 to 40 pounds, their weight being a result of genetics, age, available food and habitat location. Males have weighed in at over 60 pounds. A raccoon in the wild will probably weigh less than the urbanized raccoon that has learned to live on handouts, pet food and garbage-can leftovers. As long as raccoons are kept out of human homes, are not cornered, and are treated as wild animals rather than pets, they are not dangerous. Because raccoons manipulate and moisten food items in water, there is a misconception that raccoons "wash" their food before eating it. However, when water is not available, raccoons use many of the same motions in handling food. Facts about Raccoons Food and Feeding Behavior Raccoons will eat almost anything, but are particularly fond of creatures found in water – clams, crayfish, frogs, fish, and snails. Raccoons also eat insects, slugs, dead animals, carrion, birds, bird eggs, fruit, vegetables, nuts and seeds. When garbage and pet food are accessible, raccoons will often eat these items, too. Although not great hunters, raccoons can catch young birds, squirrels, mice and rats. Except during the breeding season and when females are with young, raccoons are solitary. Individuals will eat together if a large amount of food is available in an area. Den Sites and Resting Sites Raccoons take shelter and raise young in dens. They may use burrows that other mammals have dug and abandoned, holes in trees, hollow logs, or areas under large rock or brush piles. They may also take advantage of wood duck nest-boxes, attics, crawl spaces, chimneys and abandoned vehicles. In urban areas, raccoons normally use den sites as daytime rest sites. In wooded areas, they often rest in trees. Raccoons generally move to a different den or daytime rest site every few days, but do not follow a predictable pattern. Only a female with young or an animal "holed up" during a cold spell will use the same den for any length of time. Several raccoons may den together during winter storms. Reproduction and Home Range Raccoons pair up only during the breeding season. Mating occurs as early as January to as late as June. The peak mating period is February. The female bears two or three kits after a 63-day gestation period. The kits remain in the den until they are about seven weeks old, at which time they can walk, run, climb, and begin to occupy alternate dens. At eight to ten weeks of age, the young regularly accompany their mother outside the den and forage for themselves. By 12 weeks, the kits roam on their own for several nights before returning to their mother. The kits remain with their mother in her home range through winter. In early spring seek out their own territories. The size of a raccoon's home range, as well as its nightly hunting area, varies greatly depending on the habitat and food supply. In urban areas, a raccoon may travel a mile and still be in its home range. Mortality and Longevity Raccoons die from vehicle collisions, disease, starvation and predation. Hunters and trappers also take raccoons. Young raccoons are the main victims of starvation, since they have very little fat reserve to draw from during food shortages in late winter and early spring. Bobcats, coyotes and domestic dogs will prey on raccoons; large owls and eagles will prey on young. The average life span of a raccoon in the wild is two to three years; captive animals have lived to the age of 13. Viewing Raccoons Raccoons are usually active at night, but can occasionally be spotted during the day eating, searching for food, or napping in a tree. Coastal raccoons take advantage of low tides, whether during the day or night, to forage for shellfish and other food. Once nightly temperatures fall below 25 degrees F, raccoons retreat to their dens, but may occasionally be seen during warm spells in late fall and early spring. Trails Raccoons take advantage of trails that other wildlife or humans have made, particularly those next to water or in the shelter of woodlands or overgrown fields. They also use culverts to move safely from one side of a road to the other. With a marsh on one side and woods on the other, the culvert becomes the chief route back and forth. In developed areas, raccoon travel along fences, next to buildings, and near food sources. Tracks, Scratch Marks, and Similar Signs Look for tracks in sand, mud, or soft soil, particularly at either end of a culvert. Also check deck railings, fire escapes, and other surfaces that raccoons use to gain access to structures. Tracks may appear as smudge marks on the side of a house where a raccoon shimmies up and descends a downspout or utility pipe. Sharp, non-retractable claws and long digits make raccoons good climbers. Like squirrels, raccoons can rotate their hind feet 180 degrees and descend trees headfirst. (Cats have claws that do not rotate, they have to back down trees) Scan for scratch marks on trees and other structures that raccoons climb. Look for wear marks, body oil, and hairs on wood and other rough surfaces, particularly around the edges of den entrances. The den's entrance hole is usually at least four inches high and six inches wide. Both front and back feet have five toes. The rear foot, which shows the "heel," looks like a small human footprint; the hind tracks are three to four inches long. The front prints have shorter heel marks and are two to three inches long. Droppings Note: Raccoon droppings may carry a parasite that can be fatal to humans. Do not handle or smell raccoon droppings (the parasite can be inhaled) and wash your hands if you touch droppings. Raccoon droppings, which are crumbly and flat-ended, can contain a variety of food items. They are three to five inches long, but are usually broken into segments. They are about half an inch to one inch in diameter, about the size of the end of your little finger. Raccoons defecate before climbing trees and entering structures. They create toilet areas – called "latrines" – inside and outside structures and away from the nesting area. (House cats have similar habits). You may also find scat at the base of trees, on logs and on roofs. Calls Raccoons make several types of noises, including a purr, a chittering sound, and various growls, snarls, and snorts. Raccoons Too Close for Comfort If a raccoon comes too close to you, make yourself appear larger. If you are sitting, stand up, shout and wave your arms. If necessary, throw stones or send the raccoon off with a dousing of water from a hose or bucket. If a raccoon continues to act aggressively or strangely (circling, staggering as if drunk or disoriented) or shows unnatural tameness, it may be sick or injured. Call a game warden, your regional wildlife office, or the state police. If aggressive raccoons are routinely seen in your area, prepare children for a possible encounter. Explain why raccoons live in the area (habitat, food sources, species adaptability) and what the children should do if one approaches. Teach them to shout a set phrase such as "Go away raccoon!" instead of simply screaming, thereby informing nearby adults of the animal's presence. Demonstrate and rehearse encounter behavior with the children. If a raccoon finds its way into your house, stay calm, close surrounding interior doors, leave the room, and let the animal find its way back out through the open door, window or pet door. If necessary, gently use a broom to corral the raccoon outside. Do not corner a raccoon, thereby forcing it to defend itself. Preventing Conflicts A raccoon's search for food may lead it to a vegetable garden, fish pond, garbage can or chicken coop. It may find a den in an attic, chimney, or crawl space. The most effective way to prevent conflicts is to modify the habitat around your home to make it unattractive to raccoons. Don't feed raccoons. Feeding raccoons may create an undesirable situation for your family, neighbors, pets and the raccoons themselves. Human-fed raccoons often lose their fear of people and may become aggressive when they do not receive handouts as expected. Feeding also encourages raccoons to concentrate in a small area; overcrowding can spread diseases and parasites. Finally, these hungry visitors might approach a neighbor who does not share your appreciation of the animals. The neighbor might choose to remove these raccoons, or have them removed. Prevent raccoons from gaining access to your garbage. Keep your garbage can lid on tight by securing it with rope, chain, bungee cords or weights. Better yet, buy garbage cans with clamps or other mechanisms that hold lids on. To prevent tipping, secure side handles to metal or wooden stakes driven into the ground. Or, keep your cans in tight-fitting bins, a shed or a garage. Put garbage cans out for pickup in the morning, after raccoons have returned to their resting areas. Feed dogs and cats indoors and keep them in at night. If you must feed your pets outside, do so in late morning or around noon, and pick up food, water bowls, leftovers and spilled food daily well before dark. Keep pets indoors at night. If cornered, raccoons may attack dogs and cats. Bite wounds from raccoons can cause fractures and transmit disease. Prevent raccoons from entering pet doors. Lock the pet door at night. If it is necessary to have it remain open, put an electronically activated opener on your pet's collar. Note: Floodlights or motion detector lights placed above the pet door to scare raccoons are not long-term solutions. Keep indoor pet food and any other food away from a pet door. Put food in secure compost containers and clean up barbecue areas. Do not put food of any kind in an open compost pile; instead, use a securely covered compost structure or a commercially available raccoon-proof composter. A covered worm box also works. Your goal is to prevent attracting raccoons and to keep yourself from being exposed to their disease-carrying droppings. **Clean barbecue grills and grease traps thoroughly following each use. Prevent damage to lawns. Raccoons (and skunks) are attracted to the grubs and worms that live beneath sod. For more information about preventing damage visit our Skunks page. Eliminate access to denning sites. Raccoons commonly use chimneys, attics and spaces under houses, porches and sheds as den sites. Close any potential entries with one-quarter-inch mesh hardware cloth, boards or metal flashing. Make all connections flush and secure to keep mice, rats and other mammals out. Make sure you don't trap an animal inside when you seal off a potential entry. For information on securing chimneys, see below. Prevent raccoons from accessing rooftops by trimming nearby tree limbs and by attaching sheets of metal flashing around corners of buildings. Farm supply centers and bird-control supply companies on the Internet often carry commercial products that prevent climbing. (Fig. 4) Remove vegetation on buildings, such as English ivy, that allows raccoons to climb walls. Hide or close the opening through which they crawl into the building. Eliminate access to rooftops by installing sheets of aluminum flashing that are at least three feet square around the corners of buildings. Commercially available metal or plastic spikes can help keep raccoons off of buildings. Raccoons in Dumpsters and Down Chimneys Raccoons are enticed by the food smells in dumpsters. When the lids are open they climb in and can't climb the slippery sides to get out. To help them escape, put a strong branch or board in the dumpster. If your disposal company leaves dumpster lids open, install a sign telling employees that it's vital to keep the lid closed so animals do not get trapped inside. Consider installing a totally enclosed trash-compacting dumpster. (You deposit your trash in the front; the trash is regularly compacted) In spring and summer, a female raccoon may be enticed into the dark, quiet and secure environment of your chimney to nest. If you hear a large animal on the roof, or growls and whines coming from the chimney at night, there is probably a raccoon family inside. Using a powerful flashlight during the day, check whether animals have taken up residence. If spider webs are strung across the inside, you can be reasonably sure that no animal is using the chimney. After eight to ten weeks the female and young will leave and not return. The easiest solution is to wait for the raccoons to move out on their own. If you need to evict the animals, do not smoke them out and do not pour anything, including naphtha flakes or mothballs, down the chimney. Adult raccoons can easily climb out of a chimney, but the concentrated vapors can make the female extremely agitated while it attempts to flee. Baby raccoons cannot climb, so these measures will not evict them; in addition, the strong vapors can damage the mucous membranes of the infants. Instead, harass the adult female using the following methods until being it is no longer worth her effort to stay. One by one, she will pick up each young animal in her mouth, latching on to the back of its neck, and move it to an alternate den. Note: Any time you try to evict any mother animal, there is a chance that she may leave some or all of the young behind. To encourage the female raccoon to leave: Keep the chimney damper closed and put a loud radio tuned to a talk station in the fireplace. With a short broomstick, pole or narrow board, bang on the underside of the damper as frequently as possible. Use an olfactory deterrent. Wearing gloves, sprinkle dog, coyote or male raccoon urine (available from farm supply centers, hunting stores and the Internet) on a rag and wedge it in above the damper. If these natural repellents are unavailable, place a bowl containing a cup of ammonia on a footstool just under the damper; most dampers are not airtight, but if yours is, open the damper one-eighth inch. Keep the deterrents in place day and night during a period of mild weather and give the raccoons two to three nights to move out. The female may cause a racket the night of departure as she makes frequent trips up and down the chimney, moving her young. To make sure the eviction process was successful, shine a powerful flashlight down the chimney during the day. Tap the chimney with a hard object and listen for any sounds of movement. If a young raccoon is left behind, it may be that the mother has abandoned it. In these rare cases it is best to hire a wildlife damage control company to remove the animal. In urban areas, harassment techniques may not work because raccoons have become familiar with humans. If this is the case, call a wildlife damage control company and have them assess the situation. Once the raccoons are gone, promptly call a professional chimney sweep to remove any debris and to install a commercially designed and engineered chimney cap. (Homemade caps are often unsafe and may be a fire hazard) The new cap will allow you to have fires in your fireplace or wood stove, but will keep raccoons and other wildlife from entering. A commercial chimney cap will prevent raccoons and other small animals from entering the chimney. Enclose poultry in a secure outdoor pen and house. Raccoons will eat chickens, ducks and turkeys and their eggs. Signs of raccoon predation include the birds' heads bitten off and left some distance away, only the bird's crop being eaten, stuck birds pulled half-way through a fence, and nests in severe disarray. Note: Coyotes, foxes, skunks, raccoons, feral cats, dogs, bobcats, opossums, weasels, hawks and owls will also prey on poultry. If a dead bird is found with no apparent injuries, skinning it may determine what killed it. If the carcass is patterned by red spots where pointed teeth have bruised the flesh but not broken the skin, the bird was probably "played with" by one or more dogs until it died. To prevent raccoons and other animals from accessing birds in their night roosts, equip the poultry house with a well-fitting door and a secure locking mechanism. A raccoon's dexterous paws make it possible for it to open various types of fasteners and latches. To prevent raccoons and other animals from accessing poultry during the day, completely enclose outdoor pens with one-inch chicken wire placed over a sturdy wooden framework. Overlap and securely wire all seams on top to prevent raccoons from forcing their way in by using their weight and claws. To prevent raccoons from reaching in at ground level, surround the bottom 18 inches of the pen with smaller-mesh wire. Fence orchards and vegetable gardens. Raccoons can easily climb wood or wire fences, or bypass them by using overhanging limbs of trees or shrubs. Wire fences will need to have a mesh size that is no wider than three inches to keep young raccoons out. Install electrified wires 12 and 18 inches above ground on existing fence posts, poultry pen supports, and other structures, using the proper insulators. A single strand of wire may be sufficient, but two wires will provide added insurance that the animal will not climb up the post. Run one or two electrified wires toward the top of the fence to prevent other species from jumping the lower hot wires. Protect fruit trees, bird feeders, and nest boxes. To prevent raccoons from climbing trees, poles, and other vertical structures, install a metal or heavy plastic barrier. Twenty-four-inch long aluminum or galvanized vent-pipe, available at most hardware stores, can serve as a barrier around a narrow support. Note: Raccoons will attempt to use surrounding trees or structures as an avenue to access the area above the barrier. Alternatively, a funnel-shaped piece of aluminum flashing can be fitted around the tree or other vertical structure. The outside edge of the flared metal should be a minimum of 18 inches away from the support. Cut the material with tin snips and file down any sharp edges. Regularly pick up fallen fruit to prevent attracting raccoons. To prevent raccoons from climbing, secure guard around trees, pipes, posts and other structures. The guard can be made from a piece of aluminum flashing or sheet metal held together with wire, nails or screws, and then painted to blend in. Discourage raccoons from disturbing pond plants and other aquatic life. Raccoons are attracted to ponds because ponds are a source of food. Although it is tempting to simply install a motion-activated light or sprinkler – or shout at the animal when you see it – these tactics are at best temporarily effective. A raccoon, especially an urban raccoon, may run away the first night and walk away the second night. If there is no additional deterrent, however, by the third or fourth night the animal will be back even as the light shines brightly or the sprinkler sends out strong sprays of water. To deter the animal, you must protect potential food or secure the pond itself: Construct hiding places for fish by placing cinder blocks, ceramic drain tile, wire baskets, or upside-down plastic crates held in place with heavy rocks on the bottom of the pond. To prevent raccoons from disturbing aquatic plants in containers, use containers that are too heavy or wide for raccoons to overturn. Securing chicken wire over the top of the containers to prevent raccoons from disturbing the soil inside. Small ponds can be completely covered with a barrier that can be left on permanently or removed daily. Since raccoons are nocturnal, be sure the pond is covered at night. Examples of barriers include one-inch mesh chicken wire laid over the surface and held in place with stakes – raccoons will walk on the barrier and try and go under it. (While black bird-netting is less conspicuous, raccoons and other animals can easily get entangled in it) A wooden or PVC pipe frame covered with wire mesh can also be built to cover the pond. Maneuvering over pond plants with any of the above can be difficult. Or, you can construct a frame from heavy plastic lattice available from home improvement centers. Carefully cut the lattice so it fits in the pond; cut out pieces to accommodate any pond plants. Cover the lattice with bird netting. (with the solid backing, animals are less likely to become entangled in the netting) The netting can be glued to the lattice using Shoe Goo® or other waterproof glue. For larger ponds, stake two-foot wide strips of chicken wire flat around the inside of the pond edge where raccoons are entering. Cut the wire as needed to match the curvature of the pond. Raccoons will have difficulty reaching over the wire, and will hesitate to stand on it because of its instability. To camouflage and extend the life of the wire, spray it with dark-colored automobile undercoat paint or other rustproof paint. Ponds with steep, two-foot high side walls discourage raccoons from entering the water, but may be a safety hazard for small children and the elderly. These hazardous areas can be located away from paths and/or be heavily buffered with dense growths of tall marginal plants and shrubs. Two electrified wires, six and 12 inches above ground and just back from the water's edge will deter raccoons. A single strand of wire may be sufficient, but two wires will provide added insurance against the animal making the climb. The wires can be hooked up to a switch for discretionary use; when you want to work near the wire, turn the system off. Where the barrier presents a safety problem, attach signs, short pieces of white cloth, or other material on the wire for visibility. Install two electrified wires, six and 12 inches above ground around field crops and other areas needing protection. The fence can be hooked up to a switch for discretionary use; when you want to work near it, turn the system off. Where the fence presents a safety problem, install signs, short pieces of white cloth, or other material on the wire for visibility. Lethal Control Lethal control is a last resort and cannot be justified without first applying the above-described non-lethal control techniques. Lethal control is rarely a long-term solution as other raccoons are likely to move in if food if attractive food items such as garbage and pet foods are not eliminated or secured at the site. If all efforts to dissuade a problem raccoon fail, the animal may have to be trapped. While shooting can be effective in eliminating a single raccoon, it is generally limited to rural situations. Shooting is considered too hazardous in more populated areas, even when legal. Public Health Concerns Canine distemper contributes significantly to raccoon mortality. It is also fatal to domestic dogs, foxes, coyotes, mink, otters, weasels and skunks. It is caused by a virus and is spread most often when animals come in contact with the bodily secretions of animals infected with the disease. Gloves, cages, and other objects that have come in contact with infected animals can also contain the virus. The best prevention against canine distemper is to have your dogs vaccinated and kept away from raccoons. Raccoons in Maine often have roundworms (like domestic dogs and cats do, but from a different worm). Raccoon roundworm does not usually cause a serious problem for raccoons, but roundworm eggs shed in droppings can cause mild to serious illness in other animals and humans. Although rarely documented anywhere in the United States, raccoon roundworm can infect a person who accidentally ingests or inhales the parasite's eggs. Prevention consists of never touching or smelling raccoon droppings, using rubber gloves and a mask when cleaning areas (including traps) that have been occupied by raccoons, and keeping young children and pets away from areas where raccoons concentrate. If washing raccoon droppings from a roof, for example, make sure that the water doesn't splash toys, a patio, or other similar items. Routinely encourage children to wash their hands after playing outdoors and assist them in doing so. Unfortunately, raccoon roundworm eggs can remain alive in soil and other places for several months. Raccoons can carry rabies If someone receives a raccoon bite or scratch, immediately scrub the wound with soap and water, then flush it liberally with tap water. Contact your physician and the local health department immediately. If your pet is bitten, follow the same cleansing procedure and contact your veterinarian. If at all possible, try to recover the animal or note where it goes, as it should be submitted to the Department of Health for rabies testing. In addition, as previously noted, raccoon droppings may carry a parasite that can be fatal to humans. Do not handle or smell raccoon droppings (the parasite can be inhaled) and wash your hands if you touch droppings. Legal Status The raccoon is classified as both a furbearer and a game animal, and a hunting or trapping license is required to hunt or trap raccoons during an open season. Because legal status, trapping restrictions, and other information about raccoons change, contact your local Inland Fisheries and Wildlife Regional Office for updates. If a raccoon is causing damage or is a nuisance, consult Maine's laws on this subject: http://www.mainelegislature.org/legis/statutes/12/title12ch921sec0.html

View our website to learn more about Humane Animal Trapping! Humane Animal Trapping Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info Important Notice: Ethical Wildlife Solutions places significant emphasis on the ethical treatment of animals. However, we do not engage in live trapping of mice or rats. Rats, unlike raccoons, are challenging to capture due to their exceptional cleverness. While it is theoretically possible, it necessitates a considerable investment of time, patience, and optimism. Instead, we provide an Exclusion service , which involves sealing and preventing the re-entry of any animals. Our trapping service adheres to all Maine State guidelines and laws for the humane trapping and relocation of larger nuisance animals. We conduct 5 days of continuous trapping using a variety of traps to ensure the safety and welfare of the animals. Special baits and lures are used to target specific species, and captured animals are immediately evaluated for their health. Healthy animals are transported to safe locations in compliance with Maine State Animal Damage Control laws, while sick animals are brought to Wildlife Rehabilitation Experts we have partnered with. At the end of the trapping period, all traps are removed from the property, and any specified animal deterrents are applied or installed. ** Please note that trapping is not a guaranteed service. ** Typical animals that may require trapping include Groundhogs, Skunks, Fox, Red/Gray Squirrels, Raccoons, and Opossums and many more. To schedule an appointment, please click here .

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Frequently Asked Question by our Customers! Frequently Asked Questions Question : I have a pest control problem, how soon can you get here? Answer : We prioritize timely service to keep our customers satisfied. Generally, we can reach your home or business within a day or two of your call. Priority is given to emergencies, although rescheduling of appointments may be necessary. During peak periods, it may take up to a week to initiate services. Question : Do you also work as an exterminator for bugs and insects? Answer : No, we do not provide extermination services for bugs and insects. Question : Will my home owner’s insurance pay for your services? Answer : Most home owners insurance policies do not typically cover animal removal, but they may cover cleanup or repair costs. It is advisable to consult your insurance agent. We are willing to collaborate with you and your insurance companies to ensure the completion of the job. Question : Are you going to use a lot of dangerous poisons or chemicals? Answer : We opt not to use poisons or chemicals to resolve wildlife conflicts. However, we utilize non-toxic cleaning agents to aid in cleaning and deodorizing wildlife waste or skunk spray. The health and safety of our customers, as well as their families and pets, are always our top priority. Question : What happens to the animals you catch? Answer : Licensed NWCO are bound by specific rules and laws, which we strictly adhere to at Ethical Wildlife Solutions. Live-caught animals are relocated, while sick or injured animals are taken to rehabilitation centers. Question : Do you work in bad weather or in the winter time? Answer : Yes, we operate throughout the year, regardless of weather conditions. However, for safety reasons, there may be specific jobs that we prefer to undertake on more favorable days. Question : Do you charge by the animal, by the hour or by the job? Answer : With each wildlife scenario being unique, we adopt a flexible pricing approach to better serve our customers. For example, animal damage repair is priced based on materials and time, while bat work is priced per job. Trapping costs are determined by the type of animal and the duration of trapping. Question : Will my property be further damaged by catching these animals? Answer : Our goal is to prevent additional damage to your property. In certain cases, minor damage to the home may be necessary to remove the animal. Nevertheless, we have skilled tradespeople who can efficiently repair any damages if required. * Please note that we are not liable for any damage caused by the animal or its removal. * Question : Can I watch you work? Answer : Certainly, you are welcome to observe our work. However, in most cases, the presence of the owner is not necessary. We request that the owner be available on the day of inspection or service to sign paperwork and provide property access. Following that, we can proceed with the work even without the owner present.

Dog Fencing and Dig Protection. Stop your pet from digging under your fence and ruining your lawn! Dog Dig Defence (Internal Dig Prevention) Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info As a new dog parent, one of the most challenging situations to deal with is having an escape artist dog. It's disheartening to witness many dogs being re-homed or ending up in shelters simply because their families struggle to prevent them from digging under or climbing over fences. It's important to note that different breeds have varying reasons for digging. For example, terriers are hard-wired to dig and search for prey. This is why we are offering an Internal Dig Prevention for Dogs! If you need further assistance or advice, please click here to reach out to us. The most effective way to stop a dog from digging under your fence is to physically prevent them from doing so. Understanding why your dog is digging may take some time. Start by ensuring your dog's needs for exercise and mental stimulation are met. Leaving your dog outside alone all day can lead to boredom, which may result in digging. Sometimes, getting your dog a friend can help, but it's crucial to ensure they engage and play together until they are both tired. A well-exercised dog is less likely to dig. If getting another dog is not a viable solution and you're unable to provide your dog with the necessary mental stimulation and physical exercise, consider using puzzle feeders. These can provide mental stimulation to prevent boredom, a common reason for dogs digging under fences. Some dog owners, especially first-timers, may consider breeding their dogs. However, it's important to note that a dog in heat can be challenging to train unless you can dedicate 2-4 hours a day to training. Fully intact male dogs may also exhibit aggressive behavior. Therefore, we highly recommend spaying or neutering your dog if you want to prevent them from digging under your fence.

View our website to learn more about our Consultation Services! On-Site Contractor Consultations Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info if you're a skilled handyman who's having trouble identifying the points of entry for animals in your home, our professional service is just what you need. For a fee Ethical Wildlife Solutions offers a comprehensive inspection of the Home or Business in question. Following the inspection, we will collaborate and discuss the necessary actions and materials needed to prevent animals from entering. Every entry point will be carefully assessed and documented, providing homeowners with a clear focus for their efforts. We will securely attach 'one way doors' to the entry points to effectively exclude animals from the property. To book your appointment today, click here !

Ethical Wildlife Solutions of Maine, LLC is a Licensed/Insured Animal Damage Control Company Servicing all of Maine. Wildlife Trapping and Removal Services. Raccoon, Squirrel, Fox, Coyote, Skunk, Bat, etc. Hello . [Book An Appointment Here.] Squirrel Removal, Raccoon Removal, Animal Damage Control, Wildlife Removal, Pest Control, Animal Control Wildlife Trapping and Removal Services ONLY Please be advised that the technicians of Ethical Wildlife Solutions are exclusively trained and certified to address issues related to wild nuisance animals causing damage to property at residential or commercial premises. It is important to note that we do not handle matters involving domestic animals, such as felines, canines, or caged household pets. For any concerns regarding domestic animals, we recommend reaching out to your local police department or visit the link below for a list of Licenced Animal Control Agents. CLICK HERE Why do I have wildlife issues? As a homeowner in the State of Maine, it is important to address pest issues, pest removal, and repair damage caused by wild animals. The need for Animal Damage Control agents has become necessary to battle infestation. With the human population on the rise, we are encroaching into wild animal territory, creating a need for vigilance. To ensure the safety of your family and the security of your home, it is recommended to schedule an inspection today! Our Mission... At Ethical Wildlife Solutions, we are committed to delivering the most humane approach to Wildlife Trapping and Removal, Repairing Damage, and Preventing Future Wildlife Damage to homes and businesses in Maine. Our dedication to the ethical treatment of animals is paramount, and we take pride in helping our customers feel comfortable in their homes and businesses once again. Ethical Wildlife Solutions works closely with homeowners to completely eradicate any Nuisance Animal causing damage. Flexible financing through Wisetack! Short application, instant decision Checking your options does not affect your credit score Terms from 3 to 60 months APR from 0% to 29.9% No prepayment penalties, origination fees, or compouding interest Example: a $2,000 purchase could cost $90.40 a month for 24 months, based on a 7.9% APR. All loans are subject to credit approval. Your terms may vary. Wisetack loans are issued by Hatch Bank. See wisetack.com/faq Home Buyer's Checklist

View our website to learn more about Live Animal Removals! Live Animal Removals Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info If you ever find yourself face-to-face with a wild animal in your front yard, porch, or living area, our live Animal removal service is your top priority! You can call us anytime, day or night, if you have a wild animal loose in or around your home or business. We'll be there to safely and ethically catch the animal and relocate it. Click Here to Book your Appointment Today!

Learn more about the Animals that we work with here! Animals Covered Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Maine is home to a diverse range of wildlife species that have the potential to cause damage to your residential or commercial property. We are proud to offer our services for the humane removal of any wildlife that may be causing a nuisance in your environment. We invite you to view our slideshow showcasing some of the animals we have experience in working with.

Learn more about the Foxes that we work with here! Foxes Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Foxes Maine is fortunate to have two species of fox, the red fox (Vulpes vulpes) and gray fox (Urocyon cinereoargenteus). Both species are similar in size, but there are some important differences in their appearance, behavior, and distribution. Red Fox The red fox is abundant and widespread, occurring in all counties in Maine. Adult red foxes weigh 7-15 pounds and have a distinct red/orange appearance, white chest, black legs, and bushy white-tipped tail. Silver or cross foxes are a melanistic form of the red fox; they appear black, silver or a combination of red/black/grey and are less common than the typical red phase. Red foxes have keen eyesight and hearing, and are very agile, jumping up to six feet high. Red foxes have a special method of hunting with impressive pounces on prey hidden under the snow or ground. Gray Fox The gray fox is abundant in southern and mid-coast Maine, and continues to expand into western and central parts of Maine. Gray foxes weigh about 10 pounds and are distinguished by their grizzled coloration, a hint of red on the neck, ears, and lower legs, and a black stripe down their tail. Gray fox are the only member in the canid (dog) family in North America that can climb trees. Red foxes can climb, but not as well as gray foxes. Food and Feeding Behavior Foxes are omnivores and eat a wide variety of plants and animals, depending on the season. Small birds and mammals are consumed, including mice, voles, rats, rabbits, and bird eggs. Foxes also eat insects, snakes, carrion, berries, apples, corn, seeds, and nuts. Foxes are primarily nocturnal, including hunting during dawn and dusk, but foxes are occasionally seen out during the day, particularly during the spring/summer when rearing pups. Habitat Foxes are found in diverse habitats and are quite tolerant of living near people. Foxes are common in agricultural landscapes and tend to do well with a mix of forest and fields. Coyotes are predators of foxes but tend to be more wary of people, so foxes avoid coyotes by living near people. Preventing Conflicts Research suggests that humans create the conditions for conflict by deliberately or inadvertently providing animals with food and shelter. Use the following management strategies around your property to prevent or resolve conflicts and encourage your neighbors to do the same. Seeing a fox out during the day is not a problem and does not mean the fox is sick! Never approach or handle wildlife. Enjoy watching the fox go about its business from a safe distance. Remember that fur coats are much thinner and patchier in the summer, especially for mother foxes who have put most of their energy into raising young. Never feed wildlife. Once an animal is fed, it will return, lose its fear of people, and could become aggressive. If you have had conflicts in the past and have a bird feeder, consider planting native plants instead. Bird feeding can create a chain of events that are not always obvious. Dropped seed attracts many wildlife species who feed on the seeds or predators who feed on the rodents that increase as a result of a bird feeder. Store your trash inside buildings, use garbage cans with locking lids, and bring your garbage cans to the curb the morning of pick up. Securely cover and fence compost piles or use a compost bin. Never throw dairy or animal matter into compost, since it can become smelly and attract animals. Regularly mixing in some dirt or leaves to your pile and will also reduce the scent and allow the foods to break down more quickly into compost. Foxes and other predators will kill free-ranging chickens and other small livestock that are not secured in a shelter. Protect your livestock from predation by using a predator-proof pen with well fitted doors and locks and electric fencing. Small livestock should be confined to their pens during vulnerable periods from dusk until dawn. Foxes can carry diseases, but people can protect themselves by keeping a safe distance from wildlife and vaccinating their pets. Common fox diseases include mange, rabies, and canine distemper. Foxes are very tolerant of people and will den in a variety of places, including near roads, in yards, or under buildings. In most cases, the fox family will move if there is a lot of disturbance. Be a responsible pet owner and never let your dog harass wildlife. If you want to encourage the foxes to move, simply pour some bleach or ammonia at the entrance of the den, leave a portable light on, or a radio on overnight. This will encourage them to move to an alternative den. Prevent wildlife from denning under your porch, deck, or buildings by closing off holes during the fall. Close off these areas with quarter-inch hardware cloth, boards, metal flashing or other sturdy barriers.

Learn more about the Squirrels that we work with here! Squirrels Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Squirrels Two species of squirrel found in Maine are the Red Squirrel and the Eastern Gray Squirrel. Eastern grey squirrels commonly occur in two color phases, grey and black, which leads people to think (mistakenly) that there are two different species. The most notable physical feature of the eastern grey squirrel is its large bushy tail. The tail has many important functions. It acts as a rudder when the animal jumps from high places, as a warm covering during the winter, as a signal to other eastern grey squirrels indicating an individual’s mood. The following are some more squirrel facts for Maine homeowners: Habitat Urban: Although the grey squirrel is found in parks and woodland areas, they adapt quite easily to urban environments, taking up residence in and around buildings. They become very accustomed to utilizing attics and chimneys for nesting sites. Breeding Twice per year: Female squirrels can mate only twice a year, but males can mate at any time. Often, several males will attempt to mate with the same female. They try to attract her attention by slapping the bark of trees with their paws and chattering loudly. After the mating the males play no part in the rearing of the young. Birth occurs six weeks after mating. When Do Squirrels Have Babies? Squirrels have two breeding periods per year, one in mid-summer and another in early spring. In Maine, young are usually born between March and April, with a second litter arriving around July or August. Litter Size Female squirrels produce litters between 1 and 7 offspring (typically 5 or 6). Rearing The naked, blind and deaf young are fed every two to four hours for several weeks. At seven - eight weeks, they start to follow their mother around within the den site. The young squirrels gradually begin to eat solid food and are weaned at ten - eleven weeks of age. A month later, they start to leave the den. If there are not too many squirrels in the area, the young will build nests nearby. Otherwise, they will be chased away to less crowded feeding areas. Typically some of the squirrels will remain actively using the birthing den. Sexual Maturity Squirrels are sexually mature and able to reproduce at 11 months. Food and Feeding Frequency: The Grey Squirrel feeds every day, even in the winter. It does not hibernate and is unable to conserve enough energy to survive for long periods without food. Time of day It is most active at dawn and dusk, when it searches for whatever fruits, shoots, and seeds that are in season. Small thumbs on it's front paws allow it to hold food securely as it feeds. Diet The squirrel's diet varies according to season. It eats mainly tree bark and fungi in the winter and buds in the summer. In September it eats nuts and acorns. A hungry grey squirrel will also raid a bird's nest for eggs, steal food from bird feeders and dig up plants. In urban environments the grey squirrels also come across free handouts from people (namely peanuts in the shell). The squirrel buries extra food just below the soils surface, which it later locates by smell. Morphology and Lifestyle Body length: 9-12 in Tail length: 7-10 in Weight: 12-28 oz Habitat: Above ground (attics and chimneys), but spends much of it's time on the ground Call: Chattering and piercing scream Lifespan: 3-4 years Did You Know? The squirrel's front teeth continue to grow throughout it's life, so they must continue to gnaw to wear them down. A male squirrel can smell a female that is ready to mate. The grey squirrel can leap more than 20 feet. Although usually frightened of people, a mother squirrel can be quite aggressive if she perceives danger or is separated from her babies. Squirrels are very swift and can move or attack quickly if threatened. There can be 25 or more squirrels per square kilometre in urban areas with mature trees. Squirrels are more adaptable than you might think. They can fit through a hole the size of a baseball (black/grey squirrels) or a golf ball (red squirrels). And smaller holes can easily be chewed open.

View our website to learn more about Wildlife Exlusions! Wildlife Exclusions Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info Please be advised that our Exclusions do not apply in cases where severely rotted wood is present or if you own a Log Home of any kind. We offer a comprehensive approach to removing nuisance animals from any structure, using ethical and effective methods. Our process includes a thorough inspection of the exterior of the house to identify and address any potential animal entries. After we identify the entry points, we will install "one way doors" and permanently seal other small openings to prevent further infestation. After all animals have safely vacated the structure, we remove the "one way doors" and repair any damaged areas. Our finished products are designed to be virtually invisible in order to maintain the value of the home. Our service typically includes a one-year warranty , with an option for an additional one-year warranty renewal at a nominal cost. Typical animals that require an exclusion include, but are not limited to: bats, flying squirrels, snakes, mice, and rats. Please feel free to book your appointment today by clicking the link provided.

View our website to learn more Wildlife Rehabilitation! Wild Animal Rehabilitation Services $50.00 Donation To The Rehab Center Is Required When We Transport Wildlife. Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info Ethical Wildlife Solutions takes pride in employing a humane approach to capture and relocate nuisance animals. Regrettably, some captured animals may have pre-existing injuries or illnesses, making it unfeasible to release them back into the wild. At present, we do not possess the necessary resources to provide round-the-clock care required by the remarkable creatures we aim to assist. To address this concern, we have established partnerships with local rehabilitation experts who undertake the responsibility of tending to these animals. Once rehabilitated, the animals are reintroduced into their natural habitat. This additional service offered by our company underscores our commitment to the welfare of these magnificent creatures within our state. Additionally, we offer the option to promptly retrieve any wildlife animals in need of urgent professional care for a nominal fee . If you happen to find an animal that is sick or injured and wont leave your home or business, call to book an appointment and we will come assist! Click Here to Book your Appointment Today! Click on the PDF link below to view a list of all the Local Maine Wildlife Rehabilitation Centers:

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Learn about all of the Diseases, Parasites and Infections that Maine Wildlife Animals carry. Wildlife Diseases, Parasites, and Infections Source: https://www.maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife/wildlife/living-with-wildlife/diseases/index.html Bird Diseases Avian Influenza Avian Influenza (AI) is a type A influenza virus naturally found in certain waterfowl and shorebird species. One strain, H5N1 avian influenza, raised concerns regarding the potential impact on wild birds, domestic poultry, and human health should it be introduced into the US. Avian Cholera Avian Cholera is a contagious bacterial disease that affects ducks, geese, coots, gulls, and crows. It can be transmitted by bird-to-bird contact, contact with secretions or feces of infected birds, or through food, water, and soil. It is deadly to birds, but not considered contagious to humans. Wellfleet Bay Virus The Wellfleet Bay virus is a disease that affects Eider ducks and has thus far been confined to one location: Wellfleet, Massachusetts. Loosely related to the flu virus, it attacks the liver and gallbladder, and seems to work very fast. Learn more at NWDC . Lymphoproliferative Disease Virus (LPDV) LPDV is a disease that affects turkeys and was not detected in the United States until 2012, though it had been seen in domestic turkeys in Great Britain. The disease is similar to Avian Pox and manifests as tumors to the head and feet of turkey, but it is not transmissible to humans. Deer Diseases, Parasites, and Infections Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) is a fatal disease that affects cervids such as deer and moose. It has not yet been found in Maine, and there are things hunters can do to prevent it from being spread here. Learn more by visiting our CWD page . Fibromas Deer fibromas are wart-like growths on deer that are typically caused by an infection with a species-specific papillomavirus. In most cases, fibromas will not negatively impact the health of infected deer, and fibromas are not known to be a significant source of deer mortality. Learn more on our deer fibroma page . Lice, mange, and/or dermatophilosis It is not uncommon to see deer missing patches of fur, and there are several possible causes for this including lice, mange, and/or dermatophilosis, also known as rain rot. Learn more on our hair loss in deer page . Furbearer and Bat Diseases Mange Mange is a contagious skin disease that is caused by mites. Mange results in hair loss and is most commonly seen in foxes and coyotes in Maine, but has also been reported in bobcats, black bears, porcupines, rabbits, squirrels, and raccoons in other areas of North America. People can be infected with mange, a condition known as scabies. If you see a wild animal with mange, there is no need to call for help. Many affected animals with mange are able to recover from the disease. Mange is a naturally occurring disease that helps manage wildlife populations at healthy levels. Learn more at NWDC . Rabies Rabies is a virus that infects the central nervous system of mammals (most commonly bats, fox, raccoons, and skunk), causing a brain disease that is fatal unless treated before symptoms start. It is spread by direct contact through a scratch or bite that breaks the skin, or through a mucous membrane. Learn more from the Maine CDC. White-nose Syndrome White-nose syndrome is a deadly disease that affects bats that hibernate in the winter. It is called white-nose syndrome because of the white fungus commonly found on the muzzles of infected bats. WNS emerged in Maine in 2011 and affects several native bat species. Learn more on the MDIFW website . Moose Parasites Winter Tick The winter tick is a small, external parasite which, like all of Maine’s 15 tick species, survives on the blood of animals. Unlike other ticks, winter ticks are not known to spread disease. However, they can be deadly to moose. Learn more on our winter tick page .