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Learn more about the Coyotes that we work with here! Coyotes Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Coyotes The coyote (Canis latrans) expanded its range north and east into Maine in the 1930s, slipping into the niche that wolves once occupied as largest canine predator. These intelligent and adaptable animals now occupy almost every conceivable habitat type, from open agricultural country to dense forest to downtown urban areas. Despite ever continued human encroachment and efforts to eliminate coyotes, the species has maintained its numbers. The coyote's tenacity tries the patience of some and the admiration of others. Coyotes are medium in size. They have pointed muzzles and long, brushy tails. Their coats are usually a mixture of tan, black and gray, but can range from black to strawberry blond. The average adult coyote weighs 30 to 35 pounds, with males being heavier than females. Large males only rarely will exceed 45 pounds. Biologists estimate that at least 12,000 coyotes are living in Maine. Food and Feeding Behavior Coyotes are opportunists, both as hunters and as scavengers. They eat small animals, including snowshoe hare, mice, rats, woodchucks, beavers, squirrels, snakes, frogs, fish, birds and carrion (animal carcasses). During summer and fall, they also eat grass, fruits and berries. They may also eat pet food, garbage, garden crops, livestock and poultry. Most hunting activity takes place at night. Undisturbed, hungry coyotes may hunt during daylight hours, and sometimes follow farm machinery, catching voles and other small prey. In winter, when snow depth restricts the movements of deer, these animals may become a larger part of a coyote's diet. Pairs of coyotes or family groups, using the relay method, pursue small deer. In the spring and summer coyotes may target deer, fawns and small mammals. Den Sites The female coyote digs her own den under an uprooted tree, log or thicket. Or, she may use a cave, hollow log, or storm drain, or take over and enlarge another mammal's burrow. The den typically has an entrance one to two feet across, a main chamber five to 15 feet long, and a terminal chamber. Coyotes usually have several dens and move from one to the other, minimizing the risk that a den containing young will be detected. These moves also help to prevent an accumulation of fleas and other parasites, urine, droppings and food refuse. Coyotes may use the same dens year after year or make new dens in the same area. Reproduction and Family Structure A mated pair of coyotes will live, hunt and raise pups together for many years, sometimes for life. Breeding occurs in late January and February. After a gestation (pregnancy) of 63 days, the female gives birth to an average of four pups from late March through May. Population density and the availability of food can affect the litter size. Both parents care for the young. Occasionally, non-breeding siblings will assist. Pups emerge from the den in two to three weeks and begin to eat regurgitated food. Conflicts between humans and coyotes may occur at this time because the need for food increases dramatically. By six months of age, pups have permanent teeth and are nearly fully grown. At this time, female coyotes train their offspring to search for food, so it is not unusual to observe a family group. Juvenile coyotes usually disperse alone or sometimes in groups at six to eight months of age. A few may stay nearby, while others seek new territory up to fifty miles away. The more food available in a given area, the closer the juveniles will stay to their den. Although such crosses are rare, it is possible for coyotes to breed with domestic dogs. Mortality and Longevity Coyote numbers are controlled by social interactions and competition for food. They are territorial and aggressively defend their territories against other coyotes. Therefore, only a limited number of coyotes can live in a given area. The main predators of coyotes are humans. Coyotes may occasionally kill another coyote or its pups. Hunting and trapping reduce the overall population and thus competition among the animals. Because pup survival increases as competition decreases, hunting and trapping can enhance pup survival. Coyotes in captivity may live as long as 18 years. In the wild, few coyotes live more than four years; the majority of pups die during their first year. Aggression Coyotes occasionally kill domestic cats, dogs and other wild predators that might compete with them for food. Coyotes are protective of their young and will attack dogs that get too close to their den and pups. Note : Although people often blame coyotes when a pet goes missing or is found dead, many other animals – including dogs cats, bears, fishers, bobcats and foxes – could be responsible, as well as vehicles, disease, weather or even furious neighbors. To date, there have been no documented coyote attacks on humans in Maine. There are documented cases in other states. Often the animals responsible had become accustomed to the presence of people, were fed, and/or were targeting dogs that accompanied people. A Wildlife Extension Specialist at the University of California studied southern California – the West's most densely populated area – and found that from 1988 to 1997 there were 53 coyote attacks on humans resulting in 21 injuries. Viewing Coyotes Coyotes are extremely wary. Their sense of smell is remarkable, and their senses of sight and hearing are exceptionally well developed. You are most likely to see coyotes during the hours just after sunset and before sunrise. Go to a well-used game trail and wait patiently from an overlook. A coyote will often come down the trail the same time every morning or evening. Or, you can watch where a coyote is likely to feed, such as the area around livestock or a big game carcass. Never approach an occupied coyote den. A mother's protective instincts can make her dangerous if she has young in or nearby the den. Observe den sites and coyotes with binoculars or a spotting scope; you should be far enough away that you do not visibly disturb the animals. Unfamiliar or new human activity close to the den, especially within a quarter of a mile, will often cause coyotes to move, particularly if the pups are older, if the adults see you, or if the den is in an open area with little protective cover. Tracks and Trails Look for coyote tracks in mud, sand, dust or snow. Their trails are often found along shallow gullies, fence lines, waterways, game and livestock trails, on or near roads and on ridge tops. Coyote prints are more oblong-shaped than dog prints. The normal print is about two inches wide and two and a half inches long, with the hind print slightly smaller than the front. The two front toenails nearly always leave imprints. Droppings Coyote droppings are found in conspicuous places and on or near their trails. The droppings are extremely variable in size, shape and composition, depending on the animal's diet at the time. Individual droppings average three to four inches long with a diameter of one inch. Droppings consisting of a lot of hair may be larger. The residue from pure meat and entrails is likely to be black and semi-liquid. When the animal has been eating chokecherries, apples, blackberries, huckleberries, elderberries, or other fruit, the droppings tend to crumble and contain a significant amount of seeds. Coyote droppings are extremely variable in size, shape and composition. Other Signs When a coyote feeds on small mammals such as a rabbit, it eats the head, feet, and hide along with the legs and body, leaving a scattering of fur at the site. You may find bones, feathers and fur immediately outside the entrance to a den. Signs of digging occur where coyotes follow promising scents and excavate prey, including moles, voles, and woodchucks, or where they make failed attempts at excavating a den. When a tree falls across a trail, coyotes have to either go over or under it, depending on their size and the height of the fallen tree. Those that go over tend to rub the bark off the top of the log; those that go under sometimes leave hair on the underside. Also look for coyote hairs on a wire fence where a trail runs next to or under the fence. Calls Coyotes have a variety of vocalizations to communicate with each other. To signal threat and alarm, they use woofs and growls for short distances and barks and bark-howls for long distances. They use whines in greetings. They howl individually and in a group to tell separated group members that they have found food. They often utter a yip-howl when a group reunites. During the summer, juvenile coyotes learn these calls and can be heard trying out their voices. Juvenile coyotes are often heard in summer, trying out their voices. Preventing Conflicts Research suggests that humans create the conditions for conflict by deliberately or inadvertently providing the animals with food (such as carcasses of farm animals) or handouts, prompting young coyotes to quickly lose their fear of people. Coyotes will also become dependent on the easy food source humans have come to represent. Once a coyote loses its fear and stops hunting, it may become dangerous and attack without warning. Dealing with coyotes begins with prevention. Once an animal causes damage, it may become easier to do it again. Use the following management strategies around your property and, if possible, encourage your neighbors to do the same. Don't leave small children unattended in areas where you or others have frequently seen or heard coyotes. If there are coyote sightings, prepare your children for a possible encounter. Explain that coyotes live in the area because it is their natural habitat, there is food available, and they are adaptable animals. Say that if a coyote should approach, they should not run but be as big, mean, and loud as possible. Tell them to shout, "Go away coyote!" (or some similar phrase) rather than merely scream, which conveys no information to a nearby adult. Demonstrate and have the children rehearse this behavior. Modify the landscape around children's play areas. Prune shrubs and trees several feet above ground level so coyotes cannot hide in them. Keep deterrents nearby in times of increased sightings. Keep an old hockey stick, a broom, or a pile of stones near the play area to help prepare children for an encounter and to remind them of effective encounter behavior. Never feed coyotes. If fed, coyotes can lose their fear of humans and develop a territorial attitude that may lead to aggressive behavior. Try to educate your friends and neighbors about the problems associated with feeding wild animals. If you belong to a homeowner's association or neighborhood watch, bring up the subject during one of the meetings. Don't give coyotes access to garbage. Keep garbage can lids on tight by securing them with rope, chain, bungee cords or weights, or purchase quality garbage cans with clamps or other mechanisms that hold lids on. To prevent tipping, secure the side handles to metal or wooden stakes driven into the ground. Keep your cans in tight-fitting bins, a shed or a garage. Prevent access to fruit and compost. Keep fruit trees fenced and pick up fruit that falls to the ground. Securely cover compost piles and maintain them within a fenced area. Cover new compost material with soil or lime to prevent it from smelling. Never include animal matter in your compost, as it attracts wild animals. Feed dogs and cats indoors. If you must feed your pets outside, do so in the morning or at midday, and pick up food, water bowls, leftovers and spilled food well before dark. Do not feed feral cats (domestic cats gone wild). Coyotes prey on these cats as well as any food you leave for them. Keep dogs and cats indoors, especially from dusk to dawn. Because they have been raised by humans, pets are not prepared to fend for themselves against predators. If you leave cats and small to mid-size dogs outside at night in an unprotected area, they can easily become prey. If you do lose a dog or cat to a coyote, notify your neighbors, because once a coyote finds easy prey it may continue to hunt in the area. Prevent the buildup of food under bird feeders. Coyotes will eat bird food and are attracted to the many birds and rodents that come to feeders. Build a coyote-proof fence. Coyotes don't leap fences in a single bound but, like domestic dogs, grip the top with their front paws and kick themselves upward and over with their back legs. The tendency to climb will depend on the individual animal and its motivation. A five-foot woven-wire fence with extenders facing outward at the top of each post should prevent coyotes from climbing into the area to be protected. Coyotes are excellent diggers, however, and an effective fence needs to extend at least eight inches below the surface or have a galvanized-wire apron that extends out from the fence at least 15 inches. Fence extensions are required to keep coyotes from jumping over a five-foot fence. Angle the top of a woven-wire fence out about 15 inches and completely around the fence. An effective fence extends below the surface or has a wire apron in front of it to prevent digging. Electric fences can also keep coyotes out of an enclosed area. This type of fence doesn't need to be as high as a woven-wire fence because a coyote's first instinct will be to pass through the wires instead of jumping over them. If the bottom wire is electrified, coyotes don't usually dig under it. A six-wire electric fence can keep coyotes out of an enclosed area.Two electrified wires, eight and 15 inches above ground, respectively, and offset from an existing wood fence by 12 inches will prevent coyotes from accessing the fence. A single strand may be sufficient, but two electrified wires will provide added insurance. Alternatively, install a commercial device, such as the Coyote Roller™ , to prevent coyotes from being able to get the foothold necessary to hoist themselves over a fence. Enclose poultry (chickens, ducks and turkeys) in a secure outdoor pen and house. If poultry and eggs are available, coyotes may eat them. (Note: Foxes, skunks, raccoons, feral cats, dogs, bobcats, opossums, weasels, hawks and owls also kill poultry) You can: Equip poultry houses with well-fitted doors and secure locking mechanisms. Stake the bottom of the fence flush to the ground, or line the bottom of the fence with bricks, fence posts, or similar items. For ways to prevent coyotes from digging under a fence or structure. Completely enclose outdoor pens with one-inch chicken wire placed over a sturdy wooden framework. Various ways to install a barrier to prevent coyotes from digging under chicken coops and similar places. To add to the life of the barrier, spray on two coats of rustproof paint before installation. Always check for utility lines before digging in an area. Lay large flat stones, concrete patio pavers, or quarter-inch hardware cloth (held in place with stakes) on the surface of the soil next to a wall. The barrier forces coyotes to begin digging farther out and they will most likely give up in the process. Bend hardware cloth into an "L" shape and lay it in a trench so that the wire goes at least one foot below ground and one foot out from the wall. Excavate a three-inch by three-inch trench along the side of a wall and hammer two-foot lengths of half-inch rebar, spaced a few inches apart, into the ground. Cover the tops with concrete or dirt. Keep livestock and small animals that live outdoors confined in secure pens during periods of vulnerability. All animals should be confined from dusk to dawn. Temporary or portable fencing keeps livestock together so that they can be guarded more effectively. During birthing season, keep young and vulnerable animals confined at all times. Do not use remote pastures or holding areas, especially if there has been a recent coyote attack. Remove any sick and injured animals immediately. Ensure that young animals have a healthy diet so that they are strong and less vulnerable to predators. Livestock producers have discovered that scare devices, such as motion detectors, radios, and other noise makers, will deter coyotes – until the animals realize that they are not dangerous. Note : Educated farmers attempt to kill coyotes only when damage has occurred. If your property is home to coyotes that have not harmed livestock or pets, it is wise to keep them alive as they will keep away other coyotes that are potential livestock killers. Coyotes also benefit farmers and other property owners by helping control populations of mice, rats, voles, moles, and woodchucks. Remove or bury dead livestock. Coyotes, with their keen sense of smell, quickly find dead animals. Cover the carcass with a minimum of two feet of soil or place it in an incinerator. If you have a lot of property with livestock, consider using a guard animal. There are specialty breeds of dogs that can defend livestock. Donkeys and llamas have also successfully been used as guard animals. As with any guard animal, pros and cons exist. Purchase a guard animal from a reputable breeder. Some breeders offer various guarantees on their guard animals, including a replacement if an animal fails to perform as expected. Lethal Control If all efforts to discourage a problem coyote fail and it continues to be a threat to humans or animals in their care, the animal may have to be killed. In suburban areas of southern California, trapping and euthanizing coyotes has been shown not only to remove the individual problem animal, but also to modify the behavior of the local coyote population. When humans remove a few coyotes, the local population may regain its fear of humans in densely populated areas. It is neither necessary nor possible to eliminate the entire population of coyotes in a given area. Contact your local wildlife office for additional information.

Learn more about the Bats that we work with here! Bats Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Bats Two out of Eight species of bats found throughout Maine are - the Big Brown Bat and the Little Brown Bat. They have slightly different life-cycles and characteristics and as such are handled differently by wildlife removal experts. The following are some more bat facts for Maine homeowners: Habitat Urban: In urban environments bats are found in semi-open areas often near trees and water but will make their roots inside building spaces. Breeding Time of year: Bats mate in the fall and sometimes into the winter months. Sperm is stored and ovulation and fertilization are delayed until the female emerges from hibernation. Litter size Big Brown Bats have one to two offspring every year while the Little Brown Bat has only one. Rearing Little Brown Bats will stay in the roost for the first 18 days of their life and can fly thereafter. They reach maturity within 3 weeks. Big Brown Bats take longer to mature and do not reach adult size until 70 days. Sexual maturity Female bats are sexually mature near the end of their first year. Male bats take slightly longer and will reach sexual maturity after their first year. Food and Feeding Time of day: Bats are nocturnal and use high frequency echo-location to seek out their food. Diet Big Brown Bats eat a variety of insects but prefer beetles. Little Brown Bats enjoy flying insects like midges, mosquitoes and mayflies. Morphology and Lifestyle Wing span: Big Brown Bats - 32 to 39cm; Little Brown Bats - 22 to 27cm. Weight: Big Brown Bats - 11 to 25g; Little Brown Bats - 5 to 11g. Vocalization: Bats use high frequency echo-location that is hard to hear with the exception of some clicking sounds. Lifespan: Between 10 and 20 years with the rare bat living as long as 30 years. Did You Know? Bats play an important role in our environment as they can consume up to 3,000 insects in one night. Bats in Canada will not fly in your hair and suck your blood. Bats can spread the rabies virus when infected with very little to no evidence of contact. Bats can squeeze through a hole the size of a dime. A bat can produce several times its own weight in waste each month. Bat colonies can range in size from one to several hundred and can double in size every year. Bats hibernate when the temperature drops below 10 degrees C.

View our website to learn more about Bird Exclusions and Prevention! Bird Exclusions/Preventative Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info Birds have a tendency to roost in unwanted areas, which can pose various challenges for homeowners. Fortunately, Ethical Wildlife Solutions is certified with multiple bird excluding companies offering special products to deter birds from roosting on or around your property. These companies provide a variety of equipment designed to address this issue effectively. In addition to roosting, birds may also nest inside areas of the home such as the dryer vent and soffit boxes. Ethical Wildlife Solutions has the expertise and equipment to safely extract them from the building and install the appropriate Exclusion materials to prevent further nesting. Furthermore, it's important to note that bird droppings can contain respiratory diseases, making cleanup of the affected areas hazardous. Ethical Wildlife Solutions is committed to providing thorough cleaning and sanitization of any areas that require attention at the conclusion of our service. It's important to remember that typical animals requiring exclusion services include, but are not limited to: bats, flying squirrels, snakes, mice, and rats. If you're in need of professional wildlife exclusion services, we encourage you to click here to book your appointment today.

Learn about all the owners of Ethical Wildlife Solutions of Maine, LLP OUR BACKGROUND Based in Maine, Matt and Kaileb have grown up amidst the diverse and sometimes challenging encounters with wildlife. Their approach to every wildlife call reflects an unwavering commitment and a sense of urgency in addressing the issues at hand. When you engage our services, you can expect a swift and dedicated response to your wildlife-related concerns. Our company is widely recognized for its steadfast dedication to customer satisfaction and the ethical treatment of animals, principles that form the bedrock of our operations. For comprehensive details on the range of products and services we offer, please feel free to reach out to us at your earliest convenience. Kindly contact us for additional information.

Learn more about the Foxes that we work with here! Foxes Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Foxes Maine is fortunate to have two species of fox, the red fox (Vulpes vulpes) and gray fox (Urocyon cinereoargenteus). Both species are similar in size, but there are some important differences in their appearance, behavior, and distribution. Red Fox The red fox is abundant and widespread, occurring in all counties in Maine. Adult red foxes weigh 7-15 pounds and have a distinct red/orange appearance, white chest, black legs, and bushy white-tipped tail. Silver or cross foxes are a melanistic form of the red fox; they appear black, silver or a combination of red/black/grey and are less common than the typical red phase. Red foxes have keen eyesight and hearing, and are very agile, jumping up to six feet high. Red foxes have a special method of hunting with impressive pounces on prey hidden under the snow or ground. Gray Fox The gray fox is abundant in southern and mid-coast Maine, and continues to expand into western and central parts of Maine. Gray foxes weigh about 10 pounds and are distinguished by their grizzled coloration, a hint of red on the neck, ears, and lower legs, and a black stripe down their tail. Gray fox are the only member in the canid (dog) family in North America that can climb trees. Red foxes can climb, but not as well as gray foxes. Food and Feeding Behavior Foxes are omnivores and eat a wide variety of plants and animals, depending on the season. Small birds and mammals are consumed, including mice, voles, rats, rabbits, and bird eggs. Foxes also eat insects, snakes, carrion, berries, apples, corn, seeds, and nuts. Foxes are primarily nocturnal, including hunting during dawn and dusk, but foxes are occasionally seen out during the day, particularly during the spring/summer when rearing pups. Habitat Foxes are found in diverse habitats and are quite tolerant of living near people. Foxes are common in agricultural landscapes and tend to do well with a mix of forest and fields. Coyotes are predators of foxes but tend to be more wary of people, so foxes avoid coyotes by living near people. Preventing Conflicts Research suggests that humans create the conditions for conflict by deliberately or inadvertently providing animals with food and shelter. Use the following management strategies around your property to prevent or resolve conflicts and encourage your neighbors to do the same. Seeing a fox out during the day is not a problem and does not mean the fox is sick! Never approach or handle wildlife. Enjoy watching the fox go about its business from a safe distance. Remember that fur coats are much thinner and patchier in the summer, especially for mother foxes who have put most of their energy into raising young. Never feed wildlife. Once an animal is fed, it will return, lose its fear of people, and could become aggressive. If you have had conflicts in the past and have a bird feeder, consider planting native plants instead. Bird feeding can create a chain of events that are not always obvious. Dropped seed attracts many wildlife species who feed on the seeds or predators who feed on the rodents that increase as a result of a bird feeder. Store your trash inside buildings, use garbage cans with locking lids, and bring your garbage cans to the curb the morning of pick up. Securely cover and fence compost piles or use a compost bin. Never throw dairy or animal matter into compost, since it can become smelly and attract animals. Regularly mixing in some dirt or leaves to your pile and will also reduce the scent and allow the foods to break down more quickly into compost. Foxes and other predators will kill free-ranging chickens and other small livestock that are not secured in a shelter. Protect your livestock from predation by using a predator-proof pen with well fitted doors and locks and electric fencing. Small livestock should be confined to their pens during vulnerable periods from dusk until dawn. Foxes can carry diseases, but people can protect themselves by keeping a safe distance from wildlife and vaccinating their pets. Common fox diseases include mange, rabies, and canine distemper. Foxes are very tolerant of people and will den in a variety of places, including near roads, in yards, or under buildings. In most cases, the fox family will move if there is a lot of disturbance. Be a responsible pet owner and never let your dog harass wildlife. If you want to encourage the foxes to move, simply pour some bleach or ammonia at the entrance of the den, leave a portable light on, or a radio on overnight. This will encourage them to move to an alternative den. Prevent wildlife from denning under your porch, deck, or buildings by closing off holes during the fall. Close off these areas with quarter-inch hardware cloth, boards, metal flashing or other sturdy barriers.

Learn more about the Opossums that we work with here! Opossums Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Squirrels Two species of squirrel found in Maine are the Red Squirrel and the Eastern Gray Squirrel. Eastern grey squirrels commonly occur in two color phases, grey and black, which leads people to think (mistakenly) that there are two different species. The most notable physical feature of the eastern grey squirrel is its large bushy tail. The tail has many important functions. It acts as a rudder when the animal jumps from high places, as a warm covering during the winter, as a signal to other eastern grey squirrels indicating an individual’s mood. The following are some more squirrel facts for Maine homeowners: Habitat Urban: Although the grey squirrel is found in parks and woodland areas, they adapt quite easily to urban environments, taking up residence in and around buildings. They become very accustomed to utilizing attics and chimneys for nesting sites. Breeding Twice per year: Female squirrels can mate only twice a year, but males can mate at any time. Often, several males will attempt to mate with the same female. They try to attract her attention by slapping the bark of trees with their paws and chattering loudly. After the mating the males play no part in the rearing of the young. Birth occurs six weeks after mating. When Do Squirrels Have Babies? Squirrels have two breeding periods per year, one in mid-summer and another in early spring. In Maine, young are usually born between March and April, with a second litter arriving around July or August. Litter size Female squirrels produce litters between 1 and 7 offspring (typically 5 or 6). Rearing: The naked, blind and deaf young are fed every two to four hours for several weeks. At seven - eight weeks, they start to follow their mother around within the den site. The young squirrels gradually begin to eat solid food and are weaned at ten - eleven weeks of age. A month later, they start to leave the den. If there are not too many squirrels in the area, the young will build nests nearby. Otherwise, they will be chased away to less crowded feeding areas. Typically some of the squirrels will remain actively using the birthing den. Sexual Maturity Squirrels are sexually mature and able to reproduce at 11 months. Food and Feeding Frequency: The Grey Squirrel feeds every day, even in the winter. It does not hibernate and is unable to conserve enough energy to survive for long periods without food. Time of day It is most active at dawn and dusk, when it searches for whatever fruits, shoots, and seeds that are in season. Small thumbs on it's front paws allow it to hold food securely as it feeds. Diet The squirrel's diet varies according to season. It eats mainly tree bark and fungi in the winter and buds in the summer. In September it eats nuts and acorns. A hungry grey squirrel will also raid a bird's nest for eggs, steal food from bird feeders and dig up plants. In urban environments the grey squirrels also come across free handouts from people (namely peanuts in the shell). The squirrel buries extra food just below the soils surface, which it later locates by smell. Morphology and Lifestyle Body length: 9-12 in Tail length: 7-10 in Weight: 12-28 oz Habitat: Above ground (attics and chimneys), but spends much of it's time on the ground Call: Chattering and piercing scream Lifespan: 3-4 years Did You Know? The squirrel's front teeth continue to grow throughout it's life, so they must continue to gnaw to wear them down. A male squirrel can smell a female that is ready to mate. The grey squirrel can leap more than 20 feet. Although usually frightened of people, a mother squirrel can be quite aggressive if she perceives danger or is separated from her babies. Squirrels are very swift and can move or attack quickly if threatened. There can be 25 or more squirrels per square kilometre in urban areas with mature trees. Squirrels are more adaptable than you might think. They can fit through a hole the size of a baseball (black/grey squirrels) or a golf ball (red squirrels). And smaller holes can easily be chewed open.

View our website to learn more about Remediations! Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Inspections Dog Fencing / Dig Prevention Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info It is important to note that once animals have entered any residence, they typically soil areas in the attic or basement with fecal droppings and urine. Some animal droppings even contain diseases like Histoplasmosis, a type of lung infection caused by inhaling Histoplasma capsulatum fungal spores. These spores are found in soil and in the droppings of bats and birds. This fungus mainly grows in the central, southeastern, and mid-Atlantic states. Insulation often gets ripped up and used as a nest. Fortunately, we provide a full remediation service to address these issues. Our service includes bagging up all insulation and debris, cleaning out the soiled areas, and then applying a strong sanitizer/disinfectant over all affected areas. Finally, new insulation will be blown into the building as needed. (It is also advisable to have an electrician check over any potentially chewed wires.) To book your appointment today, click here .

Learn how being a responsible homeowner can help you avoid or resolve a wildlife confilct! Responsible Homeowner Tips/Tricks Source: https://www.maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife/wildlife/living-with-wildlife/index.html Why Are There Wild Animals Taking Over My Property And Causing Damage? Some wildlife species are drawn to residential areas because they offer food, shelter and safety from natural predators. But in exchange, they risk running into trouble with their human neighbors. MDIFW receives over 10,000 calls from the public each year related to wildlife conflicts, but we’d rather help you avoid those conflicts in the first place! As a Maine resident, you can control the way you experience the wildlife around you – enjoying the wonder of watching animals move through their habitats, not yours. To do so, you just need to understand why animals might be attracted to your property, and then take some preventative steps. How Being a Responsible Homeowner Can Avoid or Resolve a Wildlife Conflict... Many conflicts can be prevented by keeping your distance and removing common attractants. Here are some specific ways you can do that: KEEP WILDLIFE WILD Watch wildlife from a distance Never approach, handle, feed, or attempt to move a wild animal ELIMINATE ACCESS TO SHELTER Seal potential entry points in attics or chimneys and under buildings, decks, and crawl spaces with 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth, boards, or metal flashing. Trim tree limbs near rooftops and attach sheets of metal flashing around building corners BE SMART ABOUT THE GARBAGE Store garbage in a building Use garbage cans with latching lids that do not open if pushed over If you have curbside pickup, wait until that morning to take out the trash Keep dumpster lids closed and latched COMPOST RESPONSIBLY Secure your compost to keep wildlife out Never compost animal matter, which can become smelly and attract wildlife FEED BIRDS THE NATURAL WAY Plant native plants in your yard that provide food and shelter for birds and other species, without attracting rodents and other animals PROTECT POULTRY AND LIVESTOCK Secure your poultry and livestock in a predator-proof pen, protected by electric fencing or guard animals Store food indoors or in an animal-proof container BE A RESPONSIBLE PET OWNER Keep your pet’s vaccinations up to date Keep your pet on a leash and under control at all times Don’t feed pets outside unless you must; and if that’s the case, clean up after. Don’t feed feral cats At night (dusk until dawn), brings your pets inside and lock pet doors to keep other animals out